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Re: [Healeys] Cold weather work

To: "'John Vrugtman'" <javrugtman@htcnet.org>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cold weather work
From: "Bruce Steele" <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 18:51:00 -0800
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CAPAC+V4sdkd2JGM22ChYw0LCbXT1+Va9+zeS8OG-8Gp04T+O5w@mail.gmail.com> <dd1d7fa3-790a-eb0a-1edf-9fd48833604e@htcnet.org>
Thread-index: AQGS1CPaN0I9yaX7BewqS0e07PRdoQGgLUfrqA2CEqA=
Checking the 6 brass nuts on the flex pipes to manifold are on my annual 
maintenance checklist.  In my experience, they will occasionally work loose.  
I've not had a problem with the manifolds themselves, which are installed as 
John describes.  

Replacing the choke cable was very straight forward on my BN7 but perhaps 
access on a BJ8 dash is a bit more restricted.  Gentle "S" curves are the key.  
Shooting some aerosol lube down the cable couldn't hurt, I would think. 

Bruce Steele
Brea, CA
1960 BN7

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Vrugtman
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2019 2:05 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cold weather work

As I understand the parts manual when I did mine (always questionable) there 
are 10 brass nuts and plain washers at all mountings for the exhaust manifold, 
including the ones that overlap the intake manifold. The intake manifold uses 
plain washers with spring washers and a steel nut.
Have not had the problem of the downpipes coming loose, but have heard others 
have; someone may have a solution to that.

As to the choke cable; stiffness on mine was due to the brass cam shoe on the 
carburetor being very hard to move, cleaning and lube helped there.

John
64/66 BJ8s

On 11/19/2019 4:34 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I am starting to do some of the cold weather work on my BJ8 and I have
> 2 questions.
>
> 1.  My choke cable is extremely difficult to pull out, it takes both 
> hands on the knob to move the knob out far enough to activate the 
> chokes.  What is the best/easy way to access the old cable for 
> removal?  I have a new choke cable to install but how do I route the 
> new cable around behind the dash so there are no kinks (I suspect that 
> is my current problem) and to avoid the heater/defroster hoses and 
> anything else which may be in the way.  I would like to get the new 
> cable in so that it works smoothly and with just one hand. Should I 
> use grease or graphite on the cable to help?  Ideas? "I did it this 
> way and it worked great."  Tips and tricks?
>
> 2.   A couple of months ago, I had an issue with my downpipes that 
> came loose from the exhaust manifold.  On the down pipes, I removed 
> the brass nuts and split washers and replaced them with new stuff.
> Upon close inspection, I now find that the intake and exhaust 
> manifolds have also worked loose from the head.  However, on the 
> manifolds, there is a flat washer against the manifolds, then a split 
> washer and then the brass nut.  Which is the correct method of 
> assembly; flat washer then split washer and brass nut, no split washer 
> or no flat washer.  Should the downpipes be bolted together the same 
> as the exhaust/intake manifolds to the head? What is causing these 
> exhaust parts to come loose and what do I do to prevent this from 
> happening?  What is the thinking of those who have rebuilt engines and 
> what has worked?
>
> Thanks for the collective wisdom here.
>
> Fred
> 66BJ8
>


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