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Hi Fred =E2=80=93 I=E2=80=99ll give this a try.
The Healey BJ8 choke system is a pain at the best of times =E2=80=93 not =
very well designed. Works well enough when carefully set up though.
The secondary cables shouldn=E2=80=99t be crimped in any way =E2=80=93 =
the outer sheaths are held in their respective sockets by tension when =
properly set up. Crimping might create more =E2=80=98drag=E2=80=99 in =
the system, which is exactly what you don=E2=80=99t want. This is =
accomplished by lifting the carb choke lever a bit when tightening the =
cables at the carb end. This also enables the levers to move a bit =
further in order to achieve full choke when needed. There is a sweet =
spot =E2=80=93 too much is not good either =E2=80=93 the choke linkage =
will not return to the full off position. It makes a big difference =
here if the carb choke levers are perfectly synchronized =E2=80=93 the =
engine runs much better when the choke system is in use.
I have found the use of additional helper return springs useful here =
=E2=80=93 we know that the factory / dealers used them on problem cars =
back in the day. I have tried ballpoint pen springs on the cables (carb =
end), as well as a couple of other types of spring. Wound up using a =
pair of old original throttle return springs hooked around the choke =
lever cable pins and the brake pipes below =E2=80=93 has worked well for =
me for 30 plus years. The important thing here is to get just enough =
spring force to pull the levers to their full return position., but not =
enough force to have a very stiff, hard to pull choke knob, which will =
eventually screw up the system.
The primary cable uses the same principle =E2=80=93 when properly set =
up, the tension in the system will keep the outer sheath in it=E2=80=99s =
socket on the inside-the-car face of the firewall bracket. This is set =
at the cable clamp screw in the splitter bar =E2=80=93 no (or very =
slight) slack in the cable with the choke knob fully in at the dash.
I use a bit of white lithium grease to lube the cables. Try not to =
think of the proper maintenance procedure every once in a while =
=E2=80=93 take the whole damn thing apart and clean and lube the cables. =
I found a little cable lubing end for an aerosol can that works =
reasonably well. I just ignore the cleaning part!
I try and set the system up so that roughly the first 1/2 inch of knob =
movement activates only the fast idle function =E2=80=93 no enrichment =
=E2=80=93 really handy when you=E2=80=99re stuck in traffic on a =
blistering hot day, and the engine wants to die. Really helps to be =
able to speed the idle up a bit until you are moving again. Also very =
useful when at very high altitude on a trip (I=E2=80=99m at sea level). =
Just deal in a bit of fast idle with the choke knob, instead of jumping =
out with a screw driver and messing up those perfect mixture settings, =
which took weeks to achieve!=20
Another little trick I=E2=80=99ve used: If you have the primary cable =
out of the car, find a =E2=80=98tall=E2=80=99 hut ( I think that they =
are about 5/8 inch or so) to replace the thin one that is so hard to get =
to at the back of the dash. Makes tightening the primary cable / knob =
assembly much easier. (sorry, can=E2=80=99t remember the thread size =
offhand).
Hope this helps. I=E2=80=99m a bit hobbled for a couple of days, but =
could try and get you a couple of photos if you think it would help.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
From: Fred Wescoe=20
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2020 4:31 PM
To: healeys=20
Subject: [Healeys] Choke issues continue
Listers,=20
Last week when I pulled on the choke knob of my BJ8, the whole thing =
came out of the dash. The choke cable itself as well as the sheath came =
away from the block on the engine side of the firewall and out of the =
dash. So, I decided that replacing all three choke cables may solve my =
current problem of an extremely hard to pull choke knob.
The issue I discovered is that the choke cables from the firewall block =
to the carbs are not anchored at either end. When I removed the block =
from the firewall, I found that both ends of the two choke cables to the =
carbs themselves are loose in the sockets of the actual carb choke =
fitting as well as on the firewall bracket. It seems to me that for the =
chokes to work properly, both ends of the two choke cables should be =
crimped into the carb itself as well as to the block on the firewall. =
This would allow the cables to lift the chokes off their stops as well =
as allow them to return to their off positions smoothly. This amy also =
resolve the difficult to pull choke knob. The cable sheathing is much =
smaller than the socket it fits into at both ends and so there is plenty =
of slop at the ends right now.
The choke knob is securely anchored to knob on the dash and that tells =
me the other end, at the firewall block, should also be secured to the =
block.
Am I correct in my belief that all the cable ends need to be crimped =
securly for the chokes to work properly and freely?
As I resolve all my choke issues, I will relate what I did from the dash =
to the carbs.
Thanks,
Fred
66BJ8=20
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<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #141100">
<DIV>Hi Fred =E2=80=93 I=E2=80=99ll give this a try.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The Healey BJ8 choke system is a pain at the best of times =
=E2=80=93 not very well=20
designed. Works well enough when carefully set up though.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The secondary cables shouldn=E2=80=99t be crimped in any way =
=E2=80=93 the outer sheaths=20
are held in their respective sockets by tension when properly set =
up. =20
Crimping might create more =E2=80=98drag=E2=80=99 in the system, which =
is exactly what you don=E2=80=99t=20
want. This is accomplished by lifting the carb choke lever a bit when =
tightening=20
the cables at the carb end. This also enables the levers to move a =
bit=20
further in order to achieve full choke when needed. There is a =
sweet spot=20
=E2=80=93 too much is not good either =E2=80=93 the choke linkage will =
not return to the full=20
off position. It makes a big difference here if the carb choke =
levers are=20
perfectly synchronized =E2=80=93 the engine runs much better when the =
choke system is in=20
use.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I have found the use of additional helper return springs useful =
here =E2=80=93 we=20
know that the factory / dealers used them on problem cars back in the =
day. =20
I have tried ballpoint pen springs on the cables (carb end), as well as =
a couple=20
of other types of spring. Wound up using a pair of old =
original =20
throttle return springs hooked around the choke lever cable pins and the =
brake=20
pipes below =E2=80=93 has worked well for me for 30 plus years. =
The important=20
thing here is to get just enough spring force to pull the levers to =
their full=20
return position., but not enough force to have a very stiff, hard to =
pull choke=20
knob, which will eventually screw up the system.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The primary cable uses the same principle =E2=80=93 when properly =
set up, the=20
tension in the system will keep the outer sheath in it=E2=80=99s socket =
on the=20
inside-the-car face of the firewall bracket. This is set at the cable =
clamp=20
screw in the splitter bar =E2=80=93 no (or very slight) slack in the =
cable with the=20
choke knob fully in at the dash.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I use a bit of white lithium grease to lube the cables. Try =
not to=20
think of the proper maintenance procedure every once in a while =
=E2=80=93 take the whole=20
damn thing apart and clean and lube the cables. I found a little =
cable=20
lubing end for an aerosol can that works reasonably well. I just ignore =
the=20
cleaning part!</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I try and set the system up so that roughly the first 1/2 inch of =
knob=20
movement activates only the fast idle function =E2=80=93 no enrichment =
=E2=80=93 really handy=20
when you=E2=80=99re stuck in traffic on a blistering hot day, and the =
engine wants to=20
die. Really helps to be able to speed the idle up a bit until you =
are=20
moving again. Also very useful when at very high altitude on a =
trip (I=E2=80=99m=20
at sea level). Just deal in a bit of fast idle with the choke =
knob,=20
instead of jumping out with a screw driver and messing up those perfect =
mixture=20
settings, which took weeks to achieve! </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Another little trick I=E2=80=99ve used: If you have the =
primary cable out of=20
the car, find a =E2=80=98tall=E2=80=99 hut ( I think that they are about =
5/8 inch or so) to=20
replace the thin one that is so hard to get to at the back of the =
dash. =20
Makes tightening the primary cable / knob assembly much easier. (sorry, =
can=E2=80=99t=20
remember the thread size offhand).</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Hope this helps. I=E2=80=99m a bit hobbled for a couple of =
days, but could=20
try and get you a couple of photos if you think it would help.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: =
#141100">Earl=20
Kagna<BR>Victoria, B.C.<BR>BJ8, BT7 tri-carb</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'><B>From:</B>=20
<A title=3Dfredwescoe@gmail.com =
href=3D"mailto:fredwescoe@gmail.com";>Fred Wescoe</A>=20
</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, February 13, 2020 4:31 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=3DHealeys@autox.team.net=20
href=3D"mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net";>healeys</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> [Healeys] Choke issues continue</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>Listers,=20
<DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Last week when I pulled on the choke knob of my BJ8, the whole =
thing came=20
out of the dash. The choke cable itself as well as the sheath came =
away=20
from the block on the engine side of the firewall and out of the =
dash. So,=20
I decided that replacing all three choke cables may solve my current =
problem of=20
an extremely hard to pull choke knob.</DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The issue I discovered is that the choke cables from the firewall =
block to=20
the carbs are not anchored at either end. When I removed the block =
from=20
the firewall, I found that both ends of the two choke cables to the =
carbs=20
themselves are loose in the sockets of the actual carb choke fitting as =
well as=20
on the firewall bracket. It seems to me that for the chokes to =
work=20
properly, both ends of the two choke cables should be crimped into the =
carb=20
itself as well as to the block on the firewall. This would allow =
the=20
cables to lift the chokes off their stops as well as allow them to =
return to=20
their off positions smoothly. This amy also resolve the difficult =
to pull=20
choke knob. The cable sheathing is much smaller than the socket it =
fits=20
into at both ends and so there is plenty of slop at the ends right =
now.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The choke knob is securely anchored to knob on the dash and that =
tells me=20
the other end, at the firewall block, should also be secured to the =
block.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Am I correct in my belief that all the cable ends need to be =
crimped=20
securly for the chokes to work properly and freely?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>As I resolve all my choke issues, I will relate what I did from the =
dash to=20
the carbs.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Fred</DIV>
<DIV>66BJ8 </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#141100=20
face=3DArial></FONT> </DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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