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I asked if anyone was having problems with the master switch that Moss off=
ers.=C2=A0 I am getting quite an education.=C2=A0 From what it sounds like,=
if I just take the switch out of the circuit for initial start up until it=
starts easily, then even the Moss switch should be OK as long as I make go=
od connections to both ends of the cables to the switch.=C2=A0 Does that ab=
out boil it down?Mike MacLean56 BN2
On Wednesday, March 25, 2020, 3:54:53 PM PDT, Michael Oritt <michael.or=
itt@gmail.com> wrote: =20
=20
"Following that same thread, Roger Moment, in a series of articles afew ye=
ars ago recommended that if you are starting a newly rebuilt
engine or are otherwise going to run the starter motor under load
extensively, that you take the switch out of the circuit by connecting
both of the cables that run to the switch onto the same post or
otherwise complete the connection.=C2=A0 Then after the car starts with no
more than normal effort you can put the switch back into the circuit."
---------------------------------------------------------------------I cann=
ot think of a better commentary than this upon the switch's reliability.
On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 5:59 PM <sentenac.rw@gmail.com> wrote:
Following that same thread, Roger Moment, in a series of articles a
few years ago recommended that if you are starting a newly rebuilt
engine or are otherwise going to run the starter motor under load
extensively, that you take the switch out of the circuit by connecting
both of the cables that run to the switch onto the same post or
otherwise complete the connection.=C2=A0 Then after the car starts with no
more than normal effort you can put the switch back into the circuit.
-Roland
On Wed, 25 Mar 2020 17:24:47 -0400, you wrote:
>For my money (and car) I opted for a high quality marine-grade shutoff
>switch such as that made by Hella and others, sold on the Pegasus site.
>
>On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 4:31 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
>wrote:
>
>> My experience with the original Lucas Master switches has been a little
>> different.
>> Many years ago, after having a newly installed NOS switch fail on my own
>> car, I=C2=A0 discovered that it had failed because the ground cable runn=
ing from
>> the switch to the frame was not properly installed.
>> The full starter current must pass through the switch then through the
>> cable to ground. When there is resistance in that cable current passes
>> through THE SPRING to then ground through the body of the switch and the
>> switch mounting bracket.
>> This high current rapidly overheats the spring and it looses tension
>> ruining the switch.
>> I have disassembled several of these switches to stretch the spring as
>> suggested but often found that the brass of the spring had been totally
>> annealed as a result of being overheated because of the current that had
>> passed through them.
>> For my own car (and several others since)=C2=A0 I made a new spring from=
copper
>> coated steel welding wire wich lasted until I sold the car many years
>> later.
>>
>> M
--=20
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e
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r.mike@att.net
=20
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<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydpce75d0d1yahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:times new roman, new york, times, serif;font-size:16px;"><d=
iv></div>
<div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">I asked if anyone was having=
problems with the master switch that Moss offers. I am getting quite=
an education. From what it sounds like, if I just take the switch ou=
t of the circuit for initial start up until it starts easily, then even the=
Moss switch should be OK as long as I make good connections to both ends o=
f the cables to the switch. Does that about boil it down?</div><div d=
ir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Mike MacLean</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-se=
tdir=3D"false">56 BN2<br></div><div><br></div>
=20
</div><div id=3D"yahoo_quoted_5657947622" class=3D"yahoo_quoted">
<div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
=20
<div>
On Wednesday, March 25, 2020, 3:54:53 PM PDT, Michael O=
ritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com> wrote:
</div>
<div><br></div>
<div><br></div>
<div><div id=3D"yiv7901459182"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div c=
lass=3D"yiv7901459182gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff;">"<span style=
=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34);">Following that same thread, Roger Moment, in a se=
ries of articles a</span></div>few years ago recommended that if you are st=
arting a newly rebuilt<br clear=3D"none">engine or are otherwise going to r=
un the starter motor under load<br clear=3D"none">extensively, that you tak=
e the switch out of the circuit by connecting<br clear=3D"none">both of the=
cables that run to the switch onto the same post or<br clear=3D"none">othe=
rwise complete the connection. Then after the car starts with no<br c=
lear=3D"none">more than normal effort you can put the switch back into the =
circuit.<span class=3D"yiv7901459182gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51=
,255);">"</span><div><span class=3D"yiv7901459182gmail_default" style=3D"co=
lor:rgb(51,51,255);"><br clear=3D"none"></span></div><div><span class=3D"yi=
v7901459182gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255);">-----------------=
----------------------------------------------------</span></div><div><span=
class=3D"yiv7901459182gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255);">I can=
not think of a better commentary than this upon the switch's reliability.</=
span></div></div><br clear=3D"none"><div class=3D"yiv7901459182gmail_quote"=
><div class=3D"yiv7901459182yqt4891539518" id=3D"yiv7901459182yqtfd72914"><=
div class=3D"yiv7901459182gmail_attr" dir=3D"ltr">On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 5=
:59 PM <<a rel=3D"nofollow" shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:sentenac.rw=
@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:sentenac.rw@gmail.com";>sentena=
c.rw@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br clear=3D"none"></div><blockquote class=3D"=
yiv7901459182gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px=
solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">Following that same thread, Roge=
r Moment, in a series of articles a<br clear=3D"none">
few years ago recommended that if you are starting a newly rebuilt<br clear=
=3D"none">
engine or are otherwise going to run the starter motor under load<br clear=
=3D"none">
extensively, that you take the switch out of the circuit by connecting<br c=
lear=3D"none">
both of the cables that run to the switch onto the same post or<br clear=3D=
"none">
otherwise complete the connection. Then after the car starts with no<=
br clear=3D"none">
more than normal effort you can put the switch back into the circuit.<br cl=
ear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
-Roland<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
On Wed, 25 Mar 2020 17:24:47 -0400, you wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
>For my money (and car) I opted for a high quality marine-grade shutoff<=
br clear=3D"none">
>switch such as that made by Hella and others, sold on the Pegasus site.=
<br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
>On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 4:31 PM Michael Salter <<a rel=3D"nofollow" =
shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com"; target=3D"_blank"=
href=3D"mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com";>michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>><br=
clear=3D"none">
>wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
>> My experience with the original Lucas Master switches has been a l=
ittle<br clear=3D"none">
>> different.<br clear=3D"none">
>> Many years ago, after having a newly installed NOS switch fail on =
my own<br clear=3D"none">
>> car, I discovered that it had failed because the ground cabl=
e running from<br clear=3D"none">
>> the switch to the frame was not properly installed.<br clear=3D"no=
ne">
>> The full starter current must pass through the switch then through=
the<br clear=3D"none">
>> cable to ground. When there is resistance in that cable current pa=
sses<br clear=3D"none">
>> through THE SPRING to then ground through the body of the switch a=
nd the<br clear=3D"none">
>> switch mounting bracket.<br clear=3D"none">
>> This high current rapidly overheats the spring and it looses tensi=
on<br clear=3D"none">
>> ruining the switch.<br clear=3D"none">
>> I have disassembled several of these switches to stretch the sprin=
g as<br clear=3D"none">
>> suggested but often found that the brass of the spring had been to=
tally<br clear=3D"none">
>> annealed as a result of being overheated because of the current th=
at had<br clear=3D"none">
>> passed through them.<br clear=3D"none">
>> For my own car (and several others since) I made a new sprin=
g from copper<br clear=3D"none">
>> coated steel welding wire wich lasted until I sold the car many ye=
ars<br clear=3D"none">
>> later.<br clear=3D"none">
>><br clear=3D"none">
>> M<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
-- <br clear=3D"none">
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.<br cle=
ar=3D"none">
<a rel=3D"nofollow" shape=3D"rect" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"https://www.av=
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<br clear=3D"none">
</blockquote></div></div></div></div><div class=3D"yqt4891539518" id=3D"yqt=
fd57882">_______________________________________________<br clear=3D"none">=
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