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There have been a couple of references to marine grade switches. For us
landlubbers, does that mean that it holds up to the weather better with
less chance of internal corrosion? What do these things look like?
Thanks.
Charlie
On 3/26/2020 11:40 AM, Alex wrote:
>
> *A few years ago I installed a marine-grade switch on my BT7. I bought
> it from West Marine. Fits nicely and works great!*
>
> *== Alex in Maine*
>
> *1960 BT7, 1946 MG-TC*
>
>
> On 3/26/2020 8:48 AM, Robert Begani wrote:
>>
>> A Good analysis why the original Healey switch and replacements do
>> not work well. May choose to keep the original in a box and buy a
>> Hella, or continue to do with out a switch and use a direct ground to
>> the frame.
>>
>> Bob Begani
>>
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of
>> *Michael Oritt
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 25, 2020 5:25 PM
>> *To:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
>> *Cc:* Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>>
>> For my money (and car) I opted for a high quality marine-grade
>> shutoff switch such as that made by Hella and others, sold on the
>> Pegasus site.
>>
>> On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 4:31 PM Michael Salter
>>
>> My experience with the original Lucas Master switches has been a
>> little different.
>>
>> Many years ago, after having a newly installed NOS switch fail on
>> my own car, I discovered that it had failed because the ground
>> cable running from the switch to the frame was not
>> properly installed.
>>
>> The full starter current must pass through the switch then
>> through the cable to ground. When there is resistance in that
>> cable current passes through THE SPRING to then ground through
>> the body of the switch and the switch mounting bracket.
>>
>> This high current rapidly overheats the spring and it looses
>> tension ruining the switch.
>>
>> I have disassembled several of these switches to stretch the
>> spring as suggested but often found that the brass of the spring
>> had been totally annealed as a result of being overheated because
>> of the current that had passed through them.
>>
>> For my own car (and several others since)Â I made a new spring
>> from copper coated steel welding wire wich lasted until I sold
>> the car many years later.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Thu, Mar 26, 2020, 9:00 AM John Spaur, <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net
>>
>> In my experience with the switches they overheat and the
>> spring collapses.
>>
>> Good to know you have the rivets.
>>
>> John
>>
>> *From:* David Nock [mailto:healeydoc@gmail.com
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 25, 2020 7:57 AM
>> *To:* John Spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>>
>> The number one fault with both the original and the new
>> switch is the spring inside looses its tension and you then
>> loose the ground connection. We have sourced the correct
>> rivets to restore your original battery switch.
>>
>> I have also had to take apart the new switches to make them
>> work correctly. Simply drill out the rivets. Stretch out the
>> new spring and install new rivets.
>>
>> David Nock
>> 209 948 8767
>> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>> <http://www.britishcarspecialists.com>
>>
>> Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the
>> British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites
>> by visiting the site at.
>> www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
>> <http://www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org>
>>
>> *From:*John Spaur
>>
>> *Sent:*Tuesday, March 24, 2020 9:53 PM
>>
>> *To:*'Healeys'
>>
>> *Subject:*Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>>
>> I have tried to post this to the list several times but it
>> keeps bouncing.
>>
>> The internal part in the reproduction switches is plastic,
>> not Bakelite. If your engine is hard to start and you crank
>> it too long the plastic part melts and the switch is toast. I
>> rebuilt one recently with the proper Bakelite part. However,
>> they are not always interchangeable with the newer metal case
>> because the metal case is slightly smaller.
>>
>> John
>>
>> â??62 BT7
>>
>> San Jose, CA
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
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>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>>
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>>
>>
>>
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>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
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>>
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>>
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>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie@comcast.net
>
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<p>There have been a couple of references to marine grade switches.Â
For us landlubbers, does that mean that it holds up to the weather
better with less chance of internal corrosion? What do these
things look like?</p>
<p>Thanks.</p>
<p>Charlie<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 3/26/2020 11:40 AM, Alex wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:954464fc-334b-62d4-8ca9-494bf535910d@roadrunner.com">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<p><b>A few years ago I installed a marine-grade switch on my BT7.
I bought it from West Marine. Fits nicely and works great!</b></p>
<p><b>== Alex in Maine</b></p>
<p><b>1960 BT7, 1946 MG-TC</b><br>
</p>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 3/26/2020 8:48 AM, Robert Begani
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:020901d6036c$d68092b0$8381b810$@gmail.com">
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<div class="WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D">A
Good analysis why the original Healey switch and
replacements do not work well. May choose to keep the
original in a box and buy a Hella, or continue to do with
out a switch and use a direct ground to the
frame.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D"><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D">Bob
Begani<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#1F497D"><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b>From:</b> Healeys <a
class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net";
moz-do-not-send="true"><healeys-bounces@autox.team.net></a>
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Michael Oritt<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, March 25, 2020 5:25 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Michael Salter <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com";
moz-do-not-send="true"><michaelsalter@gmail.com></a><br>
<b>Cc:</b> Austin Healey <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";
moz-do-not-send="true"><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Master Switch<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#3333FF">For my
money (and car) I opted for a high quality
marine-grade shutoff switch such as that made by Hella
and others, sold on the Pegasus site.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 4:31 PM
Michael Salter <<a
href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com";
moz-do-not-send="true">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<blockquote style="border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC
1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in">
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">My experience with the original
Lucas Master switches has been a little
different. <o:p></o:p></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-family:"Arial",sans-serif">Many years
ago, after</span>Â having a newly installed NOS
switch fail on my own car, I discovered that it had
failed because the ground cable running from the
switch to the frame was not
properly installed. <o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">The full starter current must
pass through the switch then through the cable to
ground. When there is resistance in that cable
current passes through THE SPRING to then ground
through the body of the switch and the switch
mounting bracket.<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">This high current rapidly
overheats the spring and it looses tension ruining
the switch.<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">I have disassembled several of
these switches to stretch the spring as suggested
but often found that the brass of the spring had
been totally annealed as a result of being
overheated because of the current that had passed
through them.<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">For my own car (and several
others since)Â I made a new spring from copper
coated steel welding wire wich lasted until I sold
the car many years later. <o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">M<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Thu, Mar 26, 2020, 9:00 AM
John Spaur, <<a
href="mailto:jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net</a>>
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<blockquote style="border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC
1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in">
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
style="color:#1F497D">In my experience with
the switches they overheat and the spring
collapses.</span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
style="color:#1F497D">Â </span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
style="color:#1F497D">Good to know you have
the rivets.</span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
style="color:#1F497D">Â </span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
style="color:#1F497D">John</span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
style="color:#1F497D">Â </span><o:p></o:p></p>
<div>
<div style="border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in
0in;border-right-width:initial;border-bottom-width:initial;border-left-width:initial;border-right-color:initial;border-bottom-color:initial;border-left-color:initial">
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><b>From:</b>
David Nock [mailto:<a
href="mailto:healeydoc@gmail.com";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">healeydoc@gmail.com</a>]
<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, March 25, 2020 7:57
AM<br>
<b>To:</b> John Spaur <<a
href="mailto:jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net</a>>;
'Healeys' <<a
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Master
Switch<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto">Â <o:p></o:p></p>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
style="font-family:"Century",serif;color:black">The number one
fault with both the original and the new
switch is the spring inside looses its
tension and you then loose the ground
connection. We have sourced the correct
rivets to restore your original battery
switch.</span><o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
style="font-family:"Century",serif;color:black">Â </span><o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
style="font-family:"Century",serif;color:black">I have also
had to take apart the new switches to
make them work correctly. Simply drill
out the rivets. Stretch out the new
spring and install new
rivets.</span><o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
style="font-family:"Century",serif;color:black">Â </span><o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
style="font-family:"Century",serif;color:black">Â </span><o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
style="font-family:"Century",serif;color:black">David Nock<br>
<a href="mailto:healeydoc@sbcglobal.net";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">healeydoc@sbcglobal.net</a><br>
209 948 8767<br>
<a
href="http://www.britishcarspecialists.com";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">www.britishcarspecialists.com</a><br>
<br>
Help us have our Founder Norman Nock
inducteed into the <br>
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can
vote for your favorites <br>
by visiting the site at.<br>
<a
href="http://www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org</a></span><o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif;color:black">Â </span><o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto;background:whitesmoke;background-image:initial;background-size:initial;background-origin:initial;background-clip:initial;background-position:initial;background-repeat:initial"><b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif;color:black">From:</span></b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif;color:black">
John Spaur </span><o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto;background:whitesmoke;background-image:initial;background-size:initial;background-origin:initial;background-clip:initial;background-position:initial;background-repeat:initial"><b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif;color:black">Sent:</span></b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif;color:black">
Tuesday, March 24, 2020 9:53
PM</span><o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto;background:whitesmoke;background-image:initial;background-size:initial;background-origin:initial;background-clip:initial;background-position:initial;background-repeat:initial"><b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif;color:black">To:</span></b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif;color:black">
'Healeys' </span><o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto;background:whitesmoke;background-image:initial;background-size:initial;background-origin:initial;background-clip:initial;background-position:initial;background-repeat:initial"><b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif;color:black">Subject:</span></b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif;color:black">
Re: [Healeys] Master
Switch</span><o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
style="color:black">Â </span><o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
style="color:#1F497D">I have tried to
post this to the list several times but
it keeps bouncing.</span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
style="color:black">Â </span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
style="color:#1F497D">The internal part
in the reproduction switches is plastic,
not Bakelite. If your engine is hard to
start and you crank it too long the
plastic part melts and the switch is
toast. I rebuilt one recently with the
proper Bakelite part. However, they are
not always interchangeable with the
newer metal case because the metal case
is slightly smaller.</span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
style="color:black">Â </span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
style="color:#1F497D">John</span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
style="color:#1F497D">â??62
BT7</span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
style="color:#1F497D">San Jose,
CA</span><o:p></o:p></p>
<div class="MsoNormal"
style="text-align:center" align="center"><span
style="color:black">
<hr width="100%" size="2"
align="center"></span></div>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;margin-bottom:12.0pt"><span
style="color:black">_______________________________________________<br>
Support Team.Net <a
href="http://www.team.net/donate.html";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
<br>
Archive: <a
href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";
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<pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
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moz-do-not-send="true">Healeys@autox.team.net</a>
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href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";
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<pre class="moz-quote-pre"
wrap="">_______________________________________________
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
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href="http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archive</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net";>Healeys@autox.team.net</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a>
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