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Re: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues

To: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
From: John Harper via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2020 14:45:20 +0100
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CAPTa0B4=Dnrnq65qL7SzHsrLuCCtrrYouzGKwTRLD_7ViJ2x=g@mail.gmail.com> <2c3a8917-ccdb-db0e-5770-10dc3565bdc7@earthlink.net> <CAPTa0B7BmYQnnt0ES9t2tSx-AraYx=061Vp4LKXo8g54DyKXyQ@mail.gmail.com> <CAJKrNeQfpubTnk7mDe=nm5YYJyNX7hSa-AAuv4St1HF55cPVGg@mail.gmail.com> <CAB3i7L+fN6-EzdrBMMkOEpP9hZ5CogowFc6fh1NJhtnTtwXfxw@mail.gmail.com> <2007382734.1063414.1599483528764@mail.yahoo.com> <CAJKrNeTeH2zyerev3ThYyHyC=YSsMRhkMCFbgEY4AnOf2yb9EA@mail.gmail.com>
--===============8331195263511533430==

--000000000000a68a7705aeb96ed4

Curt

So that everybody is aware Lucas used as a general view odd sizes of BA as
well as 5BA as you correctly said.

Best regards

On Mon, 7 Sep 2020 at 14:39, Curtis Arndt via Healeys <
healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:

> Gentlemen,
>
> First, I fat fingered my response, the screws are no. 5 BA.  See attached.
>
> Second, there should be absolutely no need for alignment pins.
>
> Just use the correct three countersunk holes in the stator tube, get one
> started, center the switch on the plate, and the rest will follow.
>
> -Curt
>
> On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 5:58 AM <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:
>
>> I have re-read your description of the problem & if I understand your
>> issue I have 2 suggestions.
>> Would it be possible to use some temporary, low tack glue (such as common
>> glue stick) to adhere the thin copper or brass piece in place while you are
>> assembling the assembly?
>> Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA counter sunk screw & 2 longer,
>> thinner, non-threaded, temporary "pins" to assist in alignment? The "pins"
>> would be removed after you get one #4BA screw started enough that it would
>> stay in place.
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
>> >
>> >     I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for
>> >     refurbishing and got it back in great condition. However I am
>> >     having difficulty in reinstalling it:
>> >
>> >     1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to
>> >     attach the trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat
>> >     head machine screws that go through the countersunk holes in the
>> >     stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper or brass piece
>> >     which resembles a spring washer. Because of the piece's thinness
>> >     there is really only one thread of engagement and whenever I
>> >     attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
>> >     invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing
>> >     something wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
>> >
>> >     2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the
>> >     stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I start exerting
>> >     force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to be heated,
>> >     etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i would up having to
>> >     cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I have slightly
>> >     buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if perhaps I need
>> >     to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
>> >
>> >     Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and
>> >     I would like to get the car back on the road.
>> >
>> >
>> >     Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>> >
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
>> >
>>
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>

-- 
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary

--000000000000a68a7705aeb96ed4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Curt<div><br></div><div>So that everybody is aware Lucas u=
sed as a general view odd sizes of BA as well as 5BA as you correctly said.=
</div><div><br></div><div>Best regards</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_q=
uote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, 7 Sep 2020 at 14:39, Cu=
rtis Arndt via Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>healey=
s@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" =
style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);pa=
dding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">Gentlemen,<div><br></div><div>First, I fat=
 fingered my response, the screws are no. 5 BA.=C2=A0 See attached.<div><br=
></div><div>Second, there should be absolutely no need for alignment pins.=
=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>Just use the correct three countersun=
k=C2=A0holes in the stator tube, get one started, center the switch on the =
plate, and the rest will follow.</div></div><div><br></div><div>-Curt</div>=
</div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">=
On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 5:58 AM &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:warthodson@aol.com"; ta=
rget=3D"_blank">warthodson@aol.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote clas=
s=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid r=
gb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div style=3D"color:black;font:12pt &quot;Comic Sans MS&quot;,sans-serif">I=
 have re-read your description of the problem &amp; if I understand your is=
sue I have 2 suggestions.=C2=A0
<div>Would it be possible to use some temporary, low tack glue (such as com=
mon glue stick) to adhere the thin copper or brass piece in place while you=
 are assembling the assembly?</div>

<div>Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA counter sunk screw &amp; 2 longe=
r, thinner, non-threaded, temporary &quot;pins&quot; to assist in alignment=
? The &quot;pins&quot; would be removed after you get one #4BA screw starte=
d enough that it would stay in place.</div>

<div>Gary Hodson=C2=A0 =C2=A0<br>
<br>
<br>

<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">
<div id=3D"gmail-m_4398404120196588790gmail-m_-4635914555853656348yiv387556=
4034">
<div>
<div><blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rg=
b(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div id=3D"gmail-m_4398404120196588790gmail-m_-4635914555853656348yiv387556=
4034yqtfd38455">
<div><blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rg=
b(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div><blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rg=
b(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arn=
dt for<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0refurbishing and got it back in great condition. Ho=
wever I am<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0having difficulty in reinstalling it:<br clear=3D"n=
one">
&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A01. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am=
 ready to<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0attach the trafficator assembly which is done via t=
hree #4BA flat<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0head machine screws that go through the countersunk=
 holes in the<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper o=
r brass piece<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0which resembles a spring washer. Because of the pie=
ce&#39;s thinness<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0there is really only one thread of engagement and w=
henever I<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0attempt to push the head/tube home into its final p=
osition I<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head=
. Am I doing<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0something wrong here or am I simply being ham-hande=
d?<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A02. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the e=
nd of the<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I=
 start exerting<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to=
 be heated,<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i wou=
ld up having to<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I ha=
ve slightly<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if p=
erhaps I need<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?<br clear=3D"=
none">
&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning =
to cool off and<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0I would like to get the car back on the road.<br cl=
ear=3D"none">
&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
&gt; _______________________________________________<br clear=3D"none">
&gt; Support Team.Net <a rel=3D"nofollow" shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://www=
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&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
</blockquote></div>

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 class=3D"gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr">Best wishes<div><br></div><div>=
John Harper</div><div><br></div><div>AHC UK 100 Register Secretary</div></d=
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