--===============5639602906223554575==
--0000000000009c356405aec5ada9
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Bob asked "Why wouldn't you use a split olive?"
Bob--I called David Nock's place and they sent me the solid one, which was
just like the solid one that was on the car before I started this project.
Not until after it arrived did anyone mention that split olives were
available and even then some folks said solid and some split (I hate it
when Mommy and Daddy argue). In any case it is in place and hopefully
that's where it will spend a nice and tight life.
Best--Michael Oritt
On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 11:58 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
> Why wouldn't you use a split olive? They seem to seal OK, and most leaks
> come from the front or top cover, or the rocker shaft seal.
>
> On 9/7/2020 8:37 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
>
> Bill--
>
> It is identical to the one that was on the car prior to my beginning the
> project. it cam off with some difficulty.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 11:03 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Careful of the solid =E2=80=9Colive=E2=80=9D. Sounds like a tubing ferru=
le to me. If you
>> put enough force on it to set it you might not be able to remove it.
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael
>> Oritt via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> *Sent:* Monday, September 7, 2020 5:58 PM
>> *To:* John Harper <ah100register@gmail.com>
>> *Cc:* healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
>>
>>
>> - I got everything together this morning.
>> -
>> - I was under the mistaken impression that the three flathead screws
>> shown in the earlier photo should stay in place and that three additi=
onal
>> screws should pass through the plate on the end of the stator tube an=
d
>> somehow thread into the holes in the copper ring. (Those holes and t=
he
>> three smaller holes on the plate were apparently designed to slip ove=
r
>> locator pins which were present on some units, though not mine.). In=
any
>> case after a lot of good and patient advice from folks over on this l=
ist
>> and the AH Experience site I finally saw the error of my ways, remove=
d the
>> three screws and passed them through the countersunk holes on the pla=
te and
>> into the trafficator.
>> -
>> - Despite varying opinions as to whether or not the olive should be
>> split to allow for installation I was able to get the solid one sent =
to me
>> by David Nock started onto the stator tube and by using the nut I dro=
ve it
>> home. I'll finish lubing and wiring tomorrow hopefully.
>> -
>> - This is one of those jobs that we will probably do only once if at
>> all during our ownership but in case there is a "next time" for me I =
am now
>> ready and what took me hours will probably take minutes.
>> -
>> - Thanks all for your patience--Michael Oritt
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 9:45 AM John Harper via Healeys <
>> healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> Curt
>>
>> So that everybody is aware Lucas used as a general view odd sizes of BA
>> as well as 5BA as you correctly said.
>>
>> Best regards
>>
>> On Mon, 7 Sep 2020 at 14:39, Curtis Arndt via Healeys <
>> healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> Gentlemen,
>>
>> First, I fat fingered my response, the screws are no. 5 BA. See
>> attached.
>>
>> Second, there should be absolutely no need for alignment pins.
>>
>> Just use the correct three countersunk holes in the stator tube, get one
>> started, center the switch on the plate, and the rest will follow.
>>
>> -Curt
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 5:58 AM <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:
>>
>> I have re-read your description of the problem & if I understand your
>> issue I have 2 suggestions.
>> Would it be possible to use some temporary, low tack glue (such as commo=
n
>> glue stick) to adhere the thin copper or brass piece in place while you =
are
>> assembling the assembly?
>> Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA counter sunk screw & 2 longer,
>> thinner, non-threaded, temporary "pins" to assist in alignment? The "pin=
s"
>> would be removed after you get one #4BA screw started enough that it wou=
ld
>> stay in place.
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
>> >
>> > I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for
>> > refurbishing and got it back in great condition. However I am
>> > having difficulty in reinstalling it:
>> >
>> > 1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to
>> > attach the trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat
>> > head machine screws that go through the countersunk holes in the
>> > stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper or brass piece
>> > which resembles a spring washer. Because of the piece's thinness
>> > there is really only one thread of engagement and whenever I
>> > attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
>> > invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing
>> > something wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
>> >
>> > 2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the
>> > stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I start exerting
>> > force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to be heated,
>> > etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i would up having to
>> > cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I have slightly
>> > buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if perhaps I need
>> > to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
>> >
>> > Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and
>> > I would like to get the car back on the road.
>> >
>> >
>> > Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
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>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
>
--0000000000009c356405aec5ada9
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Bob a=
sked "Why wouldn't you use a split olive?"</div><div class=3D=
"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_defau=
lt" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Bob--I called David Nock's place and they s=
ent me the solid one, which was just like the solid one that was on the car=
before I started this project.=C2=A0 =C2=A0Not until after it arrived did =
anyone mention that split olives were available and even then some folks sa=
id solid and some split (I hate it when Mommy and Daddy argue). In any case=
it is in place and hopefully that's where it will spend a nice and tig=
ht life.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></di=
v><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Best--Michael Oritt=
=C2=A0</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"=
gmail_attr">On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 11:58 PM Bob Spidell <<a href=3D"mail=
to:bspidell@comcast.net">bspidell@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><bloc=
kquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:=
1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
=20
=20
=20
<div>
Why wouldn't you use a split olive? They seem to seal OK, and most
leaks come from the front or top cover, or the rocker shaft seal.<br>
<br>
<div>On 9/7/2020 8:37 PM, Michael Oritt via
Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
=20
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Bill--<=
/div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">It is i=
dentical
to the one that was on the car prior to my beginning the
project.=C2=A0 it cam off with some difficulty.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--M=
ichael
Oritt</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 11:03
PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <<a href=3D"mailto:ynotink@msn.com"; targ=
et=3D"_blank">ynotink@msn.com</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex=
;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<div>Careful of the solid =E2=80=9Colive=E2=80=9D. Sounds like =
a tubing
ferrule to me. If you put enough force on it to set it you
might not be able to remove it.</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%">
<div id=3D"gmail-m_-811683764776700319gmail-m_-2780412725893549=
148divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font style=3D"font-size:11pt" face=3D"Calibr=
i,
sans-serif" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys <<a h=
ref=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">healeys-bou=
nces@autox.team.net</a>>
on behalf of Michael Oritt via Healeys <<a href=3D"mailt=
o:healeys@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><=
br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, September 7, 2020 5:58 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> John Harper <<a href=3D"mailto:ah100register@=
gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">ah100register@gmail.com</a>><br>
<b>Cc:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=
=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>
<<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_bl=
ank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation
issues</font>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">
<ul>
<li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verd=
ana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px">I
got everything together this morning.=C2=A0=C2=A0</=
span></li>
<li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verd=
ana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><br>
</span></li>
<li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verd=
ana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px">I
was under the mistaken impression that the three
flathead screws shown in the earlier photo
should stay in place and that three additional
screws should pass through the plate on the end
of the stator tube and somehow thread into the
holes in the copper ring.=C2=A0 (Those holes and th=
e
three smaller holes on the plate were apparently
designed to slip over locator pins which were
present on some units, though not mine.).=C2=A0 In
any case after a lot of good and patient advice
from folks over on this list and the AH
Experience site I finally saw the error of my
ways, removed the three screws and passed them
through the countersunk holes on the plate and
into the trafficator.=C2=A0=C2=A0</span></li>
<li><br style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdan=
a,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px">
</li>
<li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verd=
ana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px">Despite
varying opinions as to whether or not the olive
should be split to allow for installation I was
able to get the solid one sent to me by David
Nock started onto the stator tube and by using
the nut I drove it home.=C2=A0 I'll finish lubi=
ng and
wiring tomorrow hopefully.=C2=A0</span></li>
<li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verd=
ana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><br>
</span></li>
<li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verd=
ana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px">This
is one of those jobs that we will probably do
only once if at all during our ownership but in
case there is a "next time" for me I am n=
ow
ready and what took me hours will probably take
minutes.</span></li>
<li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verd=
ana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><br>
</span></li>
<li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verd=
ana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px">Thanks
all for your patience--Michael Oritt</span></li>
</ul>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 9:45 AM John
Harper via Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.te=
am.net" target=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1=
px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Curt
<div><br>
</div>
<div>So that everybody is aware Lucas used as a
general view odd sizes of BA as well as 5BA as you
correctly said.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Best regards</div>
</div>
<br>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Mon, 7 Sep 2020 at 14:39, Curtis
Arndt via Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox=
.team.net" target=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-le=
ft:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Gentlemen,
<div><br>
</div>
<div>First, I fat fingered my response, the
screws are no. 5 BA.=C2=A0 See attached.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Second, there should be absolutely no
need for alignment pins.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Just use the correct three
countersunk=C2=A0holes in the stator tube, get
one started, center the switch on the plate,
and the rest will follow.</div>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>-Curt</div>
</div>
<br>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 5:58 AM
<<a href=3D"mailto:warthodson@aol.com"; target=
=3D"_blank">warthodson@aol.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;borde=
r-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>I have re-read
your description of the problem & if I
understand your issue I have 2 suggestions.=C2=
=A0
<div>Would it be possible to use some
temporary, low tack glue (such as common
glue stick) to adhere the thin copper or
brass piece in place while you are
assembling the assembly?</div>
<div>Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA
counter sunk screw & 2 longer,
thinner, non-threaded, temporary "pins&q=
uot; to
assist in alignment? The "pins" wou=
ld be
removed after you get one #4BA screw
started enough that it would stay in
place.</div>
<div>Gary Hodson=C2=A0 =C2=A0<br>
<br>
<br>
<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;fon=
t-size:10pt;color:black">
<div id=3D"gmail-m_-811683764776700319gmail=
-m_-2780412725893549148x_gmail-m_5202623539428257464gmail-m_439840412019658=
8790gmail-m_-4635914555853656348yiv3875564034">
<div>
<div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0=
px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div id=3D"gmail-m_-811683764776700=
319gmail-m_-2780412725893549148x_gmail-m_5202623539428257464gmail-m_4398404=
120196588790gmail-m_-4635914555853656348yiv3875564034yqtfd38455">
<div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px=
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin=
:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"=
>
<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
On 9/6/20 3:35 PM,
Michael Oritt via
Healeys wrote:<br clear=
=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0I=
sent my
trafficator/horn
assembly off to Curt
Arndt for<br clear=3D"non=
e">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0r=
efurbishing
and got it back in
great condition.
However I am<br clear=3D"=
none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0h=
aving
difficulty in
reinstalling it:<br clear=
=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A01=
. I have fed
the wires down the
stator tube and am
ready to<br clear=3D"none=
">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0a=
ttach the
trafficator assembly
which is done via
three #4BA flat<br clear=
=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0h=
ead machine
screws that go through
the countersunk holes
in the<br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0s=
tator tube
end plate and pick up
the thin copper or
brass piece<br clear=3D"n=
one">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0w=
hich
resembles a spring
washer. Because of the
piece's thinness<br c=
lear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0t=
here is
really only one thread
of engagement and
whenever I<br clear=3D"no=
ne">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0a=
ttempt to
push the head/tube
home into its final
position I<br clear=3D"no=
ne">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0i=
nvariably
dislodge one of the
screws from the head.
Am I doing<br clear=3D"no=
ne">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0s=
omething
wrong here or am I
simply being
ham-handed?<br clear=3D"n=
one">
><br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A02=
. Is there a
trick to getting the
olive over the end of
the<br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0s=
tator tube
as I cannot get it
started and before I
start exerting<br clear=
=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0f=
orce I
thought I would
enquire whether it
needs to be heated,<br cl=
ear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0e=
tc. Getting
the old one off was
not easy and i would
up having to<br clear=3D"=
none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0c=
ut it with a
dremel tool. It is
possible that I have
slightly<br clear=3D"none=
">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0b=
uggered the
end of the stator tube
and wonder if perhaps
I need<br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0t=
o dress the
end, chamfering it a
bit?<br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0A=
ny help will
be
appreciated--weather
is beginning to cool
off and<br clear=3D"none"=
>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0I=
would like
to get the car back on
the road.<br clear=3D"non=
e">
><br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0B=
est--Michael
Oritt, 100 Le Mans<br cle=
ar=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
><br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys"; rel=3D"noreferre=
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ttp://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://a=
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</blockquote></div>
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