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Bicycle shop could fo it for you or make you one.
Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR
On Sat, Jan 9, 2021, 7:53 AM <m.g.sharp@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Soldering should not be an issue with a new wound cable. However, on a
> used cable, that may have some grease on it that will inhibit soldering,
> clean first with a strong solvent (I use lacquer thinner), then use silve=
r
> solder. I find the flux that comes in a silver solder kit works much
> better with a cable that is slightly contaminated. I learned this workin=
g
> on older English bikes that have a lot of control cables and are usually
> pretty oily!
>
>
>
> Cheers, Mirek
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *BJ8Healey=
s
> *Sent:* January 9, 2021 10:39 AM
> *To:* healeys@autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Choke question
>
>
>
> There may be special tools available that prevent the cable wires from
> unwinding after cutting, but I=E2=80=99ve found it very difficult to sold=
er the cut
> ends successfully. It=E2=80=99s best to thread the new cable entirely th=
rough all
> the necessary holes before cutting it, but I=E2=80=99ve never had a probl=
em with a
> too-long cable fouling where I couldn=E2=80=99t re-position it to avoid f=
ouling
> without cutting it.
>
>
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
> <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net>] *On Behalf Of *Leonard Berkowitz
> *Sent:* Saturday, January 9, 2021 9:55 AM
> *To:* healeys@autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Choke question
>
>
>
> I have just reinstalled the carburetors on my BJ7 after replacing the jet
> assemblies on both. I purchased new scuttle to carburetor choke lines.
> Which installed fairly easily. Only problem is that both are considerably
> longer than they need to be. That didn't present a problem for the rear
> carb but the choke wire on the front was hitting the horn and this
> interfered with the operation of the choke. I tried to cut the wire and =
it
> just unraveled and became unusable. Does anyone have a suggestion on how =
to
> shorten the wire before or after it is installed.
> _______________________________________________
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>
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>
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>
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>
>
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<div dir=3D"auto">Bicycle shop could fo it for you or make you one.<br><br>=
<div data-smartmail=3D"gmail_signature">Ira Erbs<br>1959 AH 100-6<br>1967 M=
GB<br>Milwaukie, OR</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"l=
tr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Jan 9, 2021, 7:53 AM <<a href=3D"mailt=
o:m.g.sharp@sympatico.ca">m.g.sharp@sympatico.ca</a>> wrote:<br></div><b=
lockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px =
#ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div lang=3D"EN-CA" link=3D"blue" vlink=3D"pur=
ple" style=3D"word-wrap:break-word"><div class=3D"m_-3367456753804265595Wor=
dSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-fami=
ly:"Calibri",sans-serif">Soldering should not be an issue with a =
new wound cable.=C2=A0 However, on a used cable, that may have some grease =
on it that will inhibit soldering, clean first with a strong solvent (I use=
lacquer thinner), then use silver solder.=C2=A0 I find the flux that comes=
in a silver solder kit works much better with a cable that is slightly con=
taminated.=C2=A0 I learned this working on older English bikes that have a =
lot of control cables and are usually pretty oily!<u></u><u></u></span></p>=
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Ca=
libri",sans-serif"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNorma=
l"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-ser=
if">Cheers, Mirek<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span styl=
e=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif"><u></u>=
=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><div><div style=3D"border:none;border-top:solid #e1=
e1e1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span lang=
=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-s=
erif">From:</span></b><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-f=
amily:"Calibri",sans-serif"> Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healey=
s-bounces@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">healeys-boun=
ces@autox.team.net</a>> <b>On Behalf Of </b>BJ8Healeys<br><b>Sent:</b> J=
anuary 9, 2021 10:39 AM<br><b>To:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.=
net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br><b>=
Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Choke question<u></u><u></u></span></p></div></d=
iv><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><s=
pan lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri"=
;,sans-serif;color:#1f497d">There may be special tools available that preve=
nt the cable wires from unwinding after cutting, but I=E2=80=99ve found it =
very difficult to solder the cut ends successfully.=C2=A0 It=E2=80=99s best=
to thread the new cable entirely through all the necessary holes before cu=
tting it, but I=E2=80=99ve never had a problem with a too-long cable foulin=
g where I couldn=E2=80=99t re-position it to avoid fouling without cutting =
it.=C2=A0 <u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-=
US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;co=
lor:#1f497d"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span la=
ng=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans=
-serif;color:#1f497d">Steve Byers<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNo=
rmal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Cali=
bri",sans-serif;color:#1f497d">HBJ8L/36666<u></u><u></u></span></p><p =
class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-fam=
ily:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1f497d">BJ8 Registry<u></u><u></u=
></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:=
11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1f497d">AHCA Deleg=
ate at Large<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span lang=3D"E=
N-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;=
color:#1f497d">Havelock, NC USA<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNorm=
al"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibr=
i",sans-serif;color:#1f497d"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><div><div =
style=3D"border:none;border-top:solid #b5c4df 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0=
cm"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:10.0p=
t;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif">From:</span></b><span lang=3D"=
EN-US" style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif"=
> Healeys [<a href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_bla=
nk" rel=3D"noreferrer">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] <b>On Beh=
alf Of </b>Leonard Berkowitz<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, January 9, 2021 9:55=
AM<br><b>To:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blan=
k" rel=3D"noreferrer">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Subject:</b> [Healey=
s] Choke question<u></u><u></u></span></p></div></div><p class=3D"MsoNormal=
"><span lang=3D"EN-US"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><div><p class=3D"MsoN=
ormal"><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-family:"Calibri",sans-s=
erif;color:black">I have just reinstalled the carburetors on my BJ7 after r=
eplacing the jet assemblies on both. I purchased new scuttle to carburetor =
choke lines. Which installed fairly easily. Only problem is that both are c=
onsiderably longer than they need to be. That didn't present a problem =
for the rear carb but the choke wire on the front was hitting the horn and =
this interfered with the operation of the choke.=C2=A0 I tried to cut the w=
ire and it just unraveled and became unusable. Does anyone have a suggestio=
n on how to shorten the wire before or after it is installed. =C2=A0<u></u>=
<u></u></span></p></div></div></div>_______________________________________=
________<br>
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys"; rel=3D"noreferre=
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<br>
</blockquote></div>
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