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Re: [Healeys] choke cable cutting problem solved

To: "'Leonard Berkowitz'" <DrBerkowitz@hotmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] choke cable cutting problem solved
From: "John Spaur" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2021 14:50:56 -0800
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <MN2PR13MB35039180AC6F376065CDD175B8AC0@MN2PR13MB3503.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Thread-index: AQKDwjy8CHJRKgNFtSEPS8zIPp1i/ajHwHlA
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You should still weld or solder the tip because when the cable is secured
with the screw it will smash the cable and cause it to unwind to some
degree, either immediately, over time or when you remove the cable as some
point.

 

John Spaur

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Leonard
Berkowitz
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2021 1:54 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] choke cable cutting problem solved

 

Thank you all for the input on cutting the choke cable.  The idea of using a
fine cut off disk sounded like a great idea.  I had tried using my regular
cut off tool but the cable just unwound.  Then I got an idea from one of
your posts.  I am a retired dentist and I have the belt driven drill I used
in dental school (never been in a mouth) and some very fine cut off disks.
Worked like a charm.  Cut through the cable and the cable housing guide
1,2,3. Reinstalled the rear choke cable with no problems.  Now just waiting
to get another front choke cable and repeat the process. 

Again, thank you all for your input and suggestions.

 

Len Berkowitz 


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>You should still weld or solder the tip because when the cable is =
secured with the screw it will smash the cable and cause it to unwind to =
some degree, either immediately, over time or when you remove the cable =
as some point.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>John Spaur<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
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0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>Leonard Berkowitz<br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, January 10, 2021 1:54 =
PM<br><b>To:</b> healeys@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] =
choke cable cutting problem solved<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Thank you all for =
the input on cutting the choke cable.&nbsp; The idea of using a fine cut =
off disk sounded like a great idea.&nbsp; I had tried using my regular =
cut off tool but the cable just unwound.&nbsp; Then I got an idea from =
one of your posts.&nbsp; I am a retired dentist and I have the belt =
driven drill I used in dental school (never been in a mouth) and some =
very fine cut off disks.&nbsp; Worked like a charm.&nbsp; Cut through =
the cable and the cable housing guide 1,2,3. Reinstalled the rear choke =
cable with no problems.&nbsp; Now just waiting to get another front =
choke cable and repeat the =
process.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Again,&nbsp;thank =
you&nbsp;all for your input and =
suggestions.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p><=
/span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black'>Len =
Berkowitz&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></body></html>
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