RE: paint stripping prep

[Barrie Robinson <barrier@bconnex.net>]

I have used both sandblasting (Austin Healey) and chemical dip (MGB 
GT).  If (and that is a big IF) you can really rely on the chemical dip 
company then that is the way I would go.  They have to really rinse the 
shell properly.   I found the dip does do wonders and gets off stuff that 
would be impossible with blasting - like bondo.  But you have to determine 
if you want to do a fantastic job of restoring or just good enough to get 
you by for a few years.  As I was going the V8 route I needed to know what 
shape the body was in.   It seemed good but the dip showed where it 
lacked  .....oooaaaaawwwhhh! Needed lots of body work!!!


At 09:52 PM 3/18/2004, James Nazarian wrote:
> AFIK there are drawbacks no matter how you do things.  In every case the
> drawback is leftovers from your stripping process contaminating your new
> paint.  Chemicals will seep out of seams, and the media will get blown out.
> I've always used aircraft remover to strip cars, but this time of year it
> really won't work.  Last time I did a car it was about $30 and a weekend.
> You will need a dual cartridge respirator.  I did it in summer in CO and the
> paint came off about 6" behind my brush, in our current state of meteorology
> I don't think it would ever come off.
>
> One thing I have heard about the dunk tank is that it will open up every
> single rust spot on the car so it will force you to fix every one of them.
> If I were doing a car right now I would blast it, because making sure all
> the chemical strippers are neutralized is a royal PITA; I have a 50% success
> rate right now.  I'll show you my fender beads on the V8 if you want to see
> what happens when you don't neutralize sufficiently.  Tanking the car also
> means that the insides of the sills and other unreachable areas will need to
> be protected as well so you will need a plan here too.
>
> I would feel more comfortable cleaning like mad to get all the media out.
> Definitely make sure the blaster knows what they are doing because if he
> uses too aggressive a media it will cause too much heat build up and make
> potato chips out of your body panels.  It happened to a friend of mine.
> They typically require a pretty thorough degreasing so that you don't unduly
> contaminate the media.  This may or may not be a problem for you.  AFIK the
> media of choice for stripping body panels is walnut shells, although I think
> glass beads would work too.
>
> I would also have arrangements for enclosed transportation and someone to
> shoot the primer so that the car can go from stripper to primer as quickly
> as possible.  Last thing you want to do is get caught trailering a car in
> the rain when it is in bare metal (BTDT too)
>
> James Nazarian
> 71 MGBGT V8
> 71 MGB Tourer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of CraigFaubel@aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2004 9:45 PM
> To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net
> Subject: paint stripping prep
>
> Have any of you had experience with chemical dunk stripping and/or media
> blasting?  Is there a benefit (other than having someone else do the work)
> over
> stripping with a D/A sander?  I got estimates over the phone for $1500 for
> the
> chemical tank job (seems high) and around $500 for media blast job (also a
> lotta money).  Neither includes a primer afterward and the car is entirely
> disassembled already.  Do those seem reasonable for the Clevaland Ohio area?
Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
barrier@bconnex.net 
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