> John M. Trindle | jtrindle@tsquare.com replies...
> All this is fine (esp. if you can calibrate the voltage regulator to
> >exactly< the equivalent of the stablizer)
With a potentiometer you can easily make the regulator output
adjustable if you must. Because of the design there is much variation
from stabilizer to stabilizer.
> but 1) why? The stabilizer is a pretty sturdy component..
Is it??
>and 2) It's not "original"...
True, for this reason I do not use one but the original poster asked
about using a zener diode to replace the stabilizer, this seems to be a
better replacment.
>
> Then you also miss the excitement of plugging the tach into the chopped
> voltage instead of 12v....
This is exciting??
>
> Anyway, the hard part is figuring out the steady-voltage equivalent.
It is pretty straight forward. You start the car and connect a
voltmeter to the output of a working stabilizer and the needle
indicates the steady voltage equivalent. (The digits display the steady
voltage equivalent if you have one of them new fangled digital Volt
meters)
> We say 10v but it might be 9.6v or whatever... the gauges and senders are
> calibrated around this power source.
Even if you if you were off by 0.4V that is only a 4% error. 240 RPM
error on the tach at 6000 RPM, 1/25 of a tank on the fuel gage, 8
degrees on the temp gage (if it is electric) at 190, 3 lbs on the oil
pressure (also if electric). Do you think any of these gages are that accurate
to begin with??
- -Comments Welcome??
- -Mark = =o&o
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