At 05:54 PM 7/10/96 UT, you wrote:
>Well you did ask.....
>Our ongoing saga with the electrics on our latest aquisition, Busby, the '64
>MGB. We have charged the batteries... Thank you all for advice...
>We have even jump started ... thank you all again...
>Problem... Busby still refuses to budge!
>He clicks when the ignition is turned, and it sounds as though it's comming
>from an area on the left of the engine, which my husband Steve thinks might be
>the starter motor/solenoid???.
>
Hi Vicky,
If you're absolutely, positively, double -gosh-darn sure the batteries and
connections are in good shape and that they (it?) are supplying full
capacity then I'd offer the following.
The starter solenoid is indeed on the left inside fender. If it's an
original it should have a rubber button on it. This is a plunger attached
to the solenoid armature that is designed to allow manually operating the
solenoid. From what you describe I suspect either the solenoid contacts are
fubar or the starter is open circuited. It sounds as though the solenoid is
operating but if the contacts are hooped current cannot reach the starter.
I recommend you get a voltmeter or 12 volt test lamp. Connect one lead of
the test lamp to a good, solid ground and the other to one of the large
posts on the solenoid. One of the posts should light the test light at all
times, it is connected directly to the hot side of your battery. The other
is the post which feeds current to the starter when the solenoid is
energized/operated. Keep your test lamp on the post which feeds the
starter and try to start the car. If the lamp lights your solenoid contacts
are okay and the problem is most likely in the starter motor. If the test
lamp fails to light when the solenoid is operated then you'll have to
replace the starter solenoid. If it IS an original solenoid I'd suspect it
first. 32 years of switching very high current will take it's toll.
Replacement solenoids are cheap and easy to replace. A word of warning
though. Be absolutely sure to disconnect the battery(s) before starting on
solenoid replacement or you may end up with ruined paint, a new hole in your
fender, burnt wires and ruined battery(s). If the solenoid appears fine the
next step is to check the wiring from the solenoid to the starter. Move
your test lamp to the terminal on the starter motor and repeat the
procedure. If the lamp lights you have an open circuit in the starter.
Testing the starter windings is nigh on impossible without a decent meter
but there are some things to check first. Remove the brush cover from the
end of the starter motor and inspect the brushes and leads. All brush leads
must be free from corrosion and tightly connected. Gently pull on the
copper braid attached to each brush. There must be some spring tension to
hold the brush against the commutator. When the braid is pulled you should
feel some resistance and the brush should snap back against the commutator
when tension is released. If there is no tension or any brush feels loose
then most likely the brush has worn beyond it's minimum length. There is NO
room for slop here, if you feel ANY free movement at all you've got a
problem. If so, fitting new brushes is cheap and (relatively) easy. Also
inspect the springs, be sure they aren't burned or too soft. I've had
springs over heat and go bad such that they couldn't maintain tension. If
all seems fine to this point remove a brush by slipping the sping from the
end of the brush and slide it out of the holder. (Make a mental note of how
the brush came out, it's important to reinstall the brush the same way
round.) The surface of the spring should be concave, smooth and glossy. If
there is burning at the trailing edge of the brush it may indicate an
armature fault. Inspect the commutator ( the copper bar like arrangement
below the brushes) It should have a black film on the copper bars where the
brush runs against it but no pitting or burn marks. Some streaking is
acceptable but signs of heavey arcing indicate a serious fault. If
everything up to this point checks out fine then you may have an open
circuit in the starter windings and if that's the case then replacement or
rewinding of the starter is called for.
Sorry for the long winded reply but I hope it helps.
Cheers
___ \______ Ross MacPherson
/ __ \ __ / /------|) arm@unix.infoserve.net
/ (___)---------/ (___) Vancouver, BC, Canada
1947 MG-TC 3528 1966 MGB-GT
|