> What? I thought primer was supposed to be wet-sanded before applying
> the top coat. At least that is what I've been doing. I'm using
> Rust-Oleum automotive primer. It says on the can that it is
> wet-sandable. Does this advise apply only to certain primers, or am I
> in trouble?
>
> Bob Donahue, Still stuck in the '50s
> 53 MG-TD, under DIY restoration
> 71 MGB, still in the shop, 12 months and counting
You're safe, Bob, with sanding the Rust-Oleum. The 2-part
Epoxy/Primers we were discussing from PPG specifically state not to
sand before using the next coat - whether it's the finish coat or
Kondar (the surfacer/filler). At least that's how I remember the
instructions, since it's been a couple years since my last paint job.
All this advice sounds well and good, and that's how it is intended,
but the final word should be to follow the manufacturer's instructions.
My personal experience: I used Kondar surfacer directly over an old
factory finish, coarsely sanded with about 120-150 grit sandpaper to
give a good rough surface to bond to. The surfacer covered the deep
sanding marks well and the acrylic enamal base coat/clear coat finish
looked great when I was done. The problem was that the finish chips
pretty easy - deep chips right down to the old green paint, so I figure
the kondar didn't adhere too well.
My next paint job was prepared the same way, except for using the
catylized (sp?) 2-part epoxy primer first. Then the Kondar (when
sanded properly it gives a beautiful satin-smooth surface). And
finished with the same type top coat as last time. After 2 years and a
few accidental dings, this finish has not chipped at all! I checked
the garage to give the part #'s of the epoxy but I must have used it
all. Check PPG's information sheets on all their products and you'll
find the right one to use. I probably have the sales receipts
somewhwere, and, if anyone wants, I could look for them to get the
exact products.
Don Daves <dondaves@ix.netcom.com>
Santa Cruz, CA.
65 Tiger (his)
64 1/2 Mustang conv. (hers)
|