> I'm in the process of replacing the front disc brake rotors, wire
>wheel hubs and wheel bearings on my 72B. Anyone have any words of
>wisdom for an amateur???
Clean the splindles and hubs etc and assemble without grease to
adjust the end-float, it makes everything easier to handle. Put
shims in until one .002 (the thinnest) is the difference between
slight play and no play with the nut torqued-up, it is very easy to
feel. This last shim is required when finally assembling. If the
end-float was previously correct you should find the the same shims
will be correct again, so keep them and all the other components on
the same side of the car.
Pack the bearings with grease from one side until it comes out the
other, don't be tempted to press it in from both sides, you will
probably end up with a gap in the middle. Don't forget to pack the
cavity of the oil seal as well. (What is the tool mentioned by
others?)
A writer in the MGOC magazine claimed he had never been able to get
the correct end-float when finally adjusting the nut to line up the
holes for the split-pin and recommended fitting shims under the nut
as well. I accidentally tried this and found that slivers of metal
were pared off the inside of the shim by the action of the hub nut on
the spindle threads, not what one wants in a bearing.
Personally, I have not had any difficulty setting end-float. Haynes
quotes 40-70 lbf ft and this seems quite sufficient a range to line
up the holes. As far as I can see once sufficient shims are in place
the torque on the nut acts through the inner races, not through the
bearing cage.
I'd be interested to hear other comments.
PaulH
73 Roadster (HD&H)
75 V8 (DD)
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