still had it from the last time I posted it... thank God.
------------------------
A bunch of people wanted to know more about this so I decided to post to the
list...
This procedure worked on my car and I hope it will work on yours... The
trick here is how to get the nut, lock washer and spacer on and tightened
without taking the steering column out.
Note: The previous owner had been in an accident in my car which bent the
steering rack brackets over so that the steering column was shifted over to
the passenger side. It rubbed against the bracket for the engine mount. I
fixed this condition so that it is in the "normal" position. As long as
yours has not been bent or abused this should work fine as it did on mine.
Unbolt the two bolts on both sides. Jack the engine... removing all bolts
except the driver's side rear bolt which is impossible to take out unless
you loosen the engine side bracket which you don't want to do at this
point...
There IS enough clearance to get a 1/2 inch wrench in there to loosen the
nut on the mount. Depending on the size of your wrench you may have to jack
the engine more or push it a little to the side. You could even bend a
wrench a little to clear the oil pan. A standard craftsman fits fine. I did
the swap with my engine out but I tightened the mount with the engine in so
I know it is possible to fit it in there and have enough clearance to get it
to turn. Once you break the nut loose you hold the wrench and spin the mount
to remove it. You should now have a nut, lock washer, and a square spacer
plate spread out over the floor or hidden behinds a tire. Pick 'em up and
get the new mount handy.
Trick part: Take a 1 inch diameter rubber band (small) and double it around
the nut so that it covers the 6 flat sides, spread the two loops of rubber
band apart a little. Now each of the six flat sides of the nut have two
rubber band strips on them. This will allow the nut to be placed securely in
the open end of the wrench (even at an angle) so that it can be held in
place between the bracket and steering column. You should be able to pick up
the wrench by grabbing the nut.
I have a lot of patience and used an awl type tool with a bent tip to align
and hold the spacer and lock washer against the bracket. I basically just
put the tool through the hole in the bracket and slipped the lock washer and
spacer over the hook then pulled it up to the back of the bracket (dropped
it about 6 times) but there may be an easier way. You could buy a locknut
(nylock) to replace the nut lock washer combo and then you would only have
to align the spacer plate. While you have that spacer plate approximately
over the right spot with the holes lining up, take your wrench with the nut
on it an slip it in there. when you get it in line with the holes in the
bracket and spacer (lock washer if applicable),hold the wrench up against
the spacer to hold it in place and slip out the awl. You can now use a round
punch or awl, whatever you want to perfectly line up the holes while keeping
pressure with the wrench. Don't worry about the angle of the nut. Take the
new mount and screw the bolt end into the nut which you are holding up to
the hole with the wrench. Because the rubber band is flexible, the nut will
be able to move and thread properly onto the mount. Once you have it screwed
in hand tight and in position, you can give the nut a last few turns using
the wrench ( you may have to flip the wrench over each fraction of a turn
depending on clearance ) You can just scrape the rubber bands off the nut so
that it's easier to tighten the nut.
If you are replacing shims... (I have two on the drivers side for clearance
with the exhaust and steering column), tape or glue them together. You could
also tape them to the mount to ease alignment and installation.
I was able to swap the driver's side mount in a few minutes (under 30 min)
Hope you have the same luck. If something is not clear or doesn't make
sense, reply. If this wasn't the flashy magical answer you were looking for
sorry but at least it works ( your mileage may vary).
Christopher Reichle
----------
From: mgs-owner
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: MGB Motor Mount
Date: Monday, December 16, 1996 10:30AM
I have a 76 B which I replaced the left side motor mount. Bolting it to the
engine was no problem, but I don't know how to get the nut on the bottom of
the mount.
The steering shaft goes thru the frame mount and there is no room. Is there
an easy way
to remove the steering shaft without removing the steering rack etc. HELP!!
Craig
76 B
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