wake@DIXIENET.COM wrote:
> The plan is to do the following things.
>
> 1. Replace Clutch. This seems pretty straight forward.
> 2. Paint Engine. Any hints here? I am still trying to get the engine clean
> enough to paint. Can I just use black engine spray paint?
> 3. Remove, strip, and paint all the other parts (heater, radiator, etc.)
> What
> parts of the radiator can I paint?
> 4. Replace all rubber hoses and clamps? This is needed.
> 5. Replace gaskets, on exhaust and around SU's.
> 6. Check the valve clearances. I was getting a little valve noise.
> 7. Rewrap the wiring harness.
> 8. Strip all paint, oil etc. from engine compartment, and have body
> shop paint the compartment when the rest of the vehicle is resprayed.
>
> Am I missing anything here? Or is there anything else I should look at
> while the engine is out. Anything I should do to the Gear Box (non
> O/D)?
Advice number one is quit while your ahead. More than one nut/bolt restoration
has started with "detailing the engine bay."
I bought some paint mail-order from Bill Hursch. He has ads in Hemmings and
promises "correct" engine enamel. I bought a quart of Healey green and it was
very durable and brushing it on made for much better coverage. I think Hursch
sells the maroon color which looks quite nice on 'B' motors.
Several times I have had my radiators 'boiled-out" and specified not to paint
amything afterwards. You get the radiator back nearly stripped to metal and you
can see any scars and scabs it has acquired. Then I spray the whole think with
shiny engine enamel. Everyone says this is bad as the paint has some undesirable
thermal insulation properites. I've never had overheating problems but I don't
drive the car in stop-and-go summer traffic, either. Eastwood sells the proper
"almost glossy" black paint for under the hood stuff like the heater box, etc. I
just never cared that much.
If you go to the trouble of taking the heater box out, be sure to clean out the
heater core real well. Then I wrap the sides of the core with 1/2
weatherstripping foam. This assures that air must pass through and not around
the heater core and improved the heater efficiency a bunch in the old Midget.
I've had a problem with water pumps going bad after a rebuild. I assume the
seals shrink after being exposed to air for a month or so then leak when the
motor is put back in. I don't know the solution so I just have the pump rebuilt
locally if the motor is going to be out for awhile -- YMMV.
Replacing synchros in the tranny might be something to think about. It ain't
hard if you've done it before but is pretty scarry if you haven't. Also, it
would be a natural to replace/grease the u-joints now.
How are the hydraulics? You might consider getting all new seals in the Masters
and Clutch Slave while you are detailing the engine bay. This also allows you to
remove the lines for better paint access.
I've seen the hydraulic struts installed in a couple of cars to hold the bonnet
up. Those are very nice looking and functional. It takes a spot of welding to
install but you'll be painting anyway.
See, the list can go on for ever and ever!
--
Bob Allen, Kansas City, '69CGT, '75TR6, '61Elva(?)
"Lead me not into temptation. I can get there just fine by myself."
|