On Fri, 29 Aug 1997 01:42:14 EDT barneymg@juno.com (Barney Gaylord)
writes:
>
>On Thu, 28 Aug 1997 23:17:26 -0500 Jeff Boatright <jboatri@emory.edu>
>writes:
>
>>..... I guess a m.c. rebuild is in order. How do I tell if the mc
>must be honed, or is this something that should always be done? Is it
>more economical to replace the entire mc, or can I hone it, or should
>I have a shop do it?
>
>A rebuild kit is dirt cheap compared to the other options. So, start
>by stuffing in a rebuild kit, put it back together, and see if your
>leak went away.
>
>While you have it open, grab a bright inspection light and check down
>the bore. If it's nice and shiny all the way down, no problem. If it
>has a few skuff marks on the wall, it needs to be honed. If it has
>pit marks in the cylinder wall, it needs to be sleeved or replaced.
>
>You can hone it yourself if you can find a hone small enough. A small
>hone is not very expensive. Spin it with an electric drill. Apply
>oil liberally. Clean the cylinder thoroughly after honing.
>
>Barney Gaylord
>1958 MGA with an attitude
I will agree with you 99% Barney, except the point of "Apply oil
liberally". It's best to avoid completely introducing petroleum products
into a brake system. It only takes a very small amount to contaminate
brake fluid.
Rather than oil, use new, clean brake fluid, of the same type as in the
system to lubricate the hone. And keep the MC opening tilted slightly
downward during the operation to minimize the possibility of trapping
grunge in the MC. Finally, flush liberaly with clean brake fluid to
remove any left over crud.
Just my $.02 worth
Rick Morrison
72 MGBGT
74 Midget
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