> Scott,
>
> The oil pressure relief valve on the left side of the engine's job (we are
> talking about a "B" this time, aren't we) is to by-pass excess oil flow that
> the bearings cannot use. It is a very simple spring balanced device.
>
> You will find that it sometimes goes into a sort of oscillation at different
> flow rates (engine RPM's). This doesn't mean something is wrong.
>
> If you didn't replace it during your rebuild, you might feel better if you
> did, not that there is anything wrong. The spring and valve are $6 from VB.
>
> Moss also has a "heavy duty" spring that will raise pressure from about 75
> psig to about 100 psig. I have one, but never installed it. I decided that it
> would only put extra strain on the oil pump and that if the bearings were
> already flooded, the extra pressure wasn't really necessary, at least for
> street use. Racing might benefit from the extra pressure and flow. Since my
> car is a daily driver, I opted to not go the route of speed goodies that
> cause extra stress on other parts, like a high lift cam, that high pressure
> oil relief valve, etc.
>
> Incidently, I think that the oil pressure of a cold engine should be about 75
> psig. That's where mine is until it gets fully warmed up. At running
> temperature I see about 50 - 55 psig on the guage. It's been that way since a
> rebuild about 50,000 miles ago.
>
> I also change the oil and filter as close to 3,000 miles as I can remember to
> do it. In the summer I use 50w Valvoline. In colder months, 10w-40. Oh, and I
> use Fram filters, which should start another thread of discussion. I have
> also used the Fram filter with Teflon about every third change.
>
> R. Johnson - Dallas
>
> '90 Maine Coon
> '79 Midget
> '76 Midget
> '73 MGB
>
I had the mechanic install the high-volume oil pump and uprated
spring from Vicky Brit during the rebuild. If the ocsillation is
normal, then I won't worry about it.
Scott
Scott Gardner
gardner@lwcomm.com
www.lwcomm.com/~gardner
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