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Re: Valve Adjustment Gone Bad!!! (help quick)

To: "Barney Gaylord" <barneymg@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Valve Adjustment Gone Bad!!! (help quick)
From: "Tyson Sherman" <tsherman@tecinfo.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 23:52:12 -0500

> If you have the adjuster screw backed up all the way and you still don't
> have enough clearance, you either have a broken valve head or valve
> recession.  If it ran half decent before your fiddling, it probably isn't
> a broken valve.  Valve recession is when the valve gets burned or worn
> and/or the valve seat gets burned or worn so the valve head sits deeper
> into the seat and the stem protrudes more on top taking up the clearance
> at the adjuster screw.

I have the screw backed up quite a bit, but the valve continues
to open as I loosen the screw.  The car ran fine before I tried to
do it but #1 valve is always noisey.
 
> The proper fix for valve recession is to remove the cylinder head, have
> the valve seat machined out of the head, and have a valve seat insert
> installed to renew the material.  If you're going to all that trouble,
> you will be getting a fresh valve job at the same time.  And while you're
> at it, it's a good time to get that no-lead head job done.  This includes
> the installation of all new hardened steel valve seats, possibly bronze
> valve guides, and maybe even stellite exhaust valves.

While doing so (running car w/the valve cover off) I noticed
white bubbles (water?) in the oil.  Beforehand I didn' notice
any water loss but now I do.  The head was retorqued a
few weeks ago.

> In the mean time, assuming that you don't want all that bother and
> expense just now, you can do a "Grapes of Wrath"  fix for the moment. 
> >From the front of the rocker shaft, remove the split pin, flat washer,
> coil washer, and #1 rocker arm.  Using a hand grinder (or emery paper on
> a sanding disk with electric drill), remove a little material from the
> end of the valve stem.  Be careful of course not to let the metal
> particles fall into the engine, and try to keep the tip surface flat and
> perpendicular to the stem.  Replace the parts and adjust the running
> clearance as normal.
> 
> The last time I did that, it lasted until the head needed to be replaced
> for some other reason and saved me a lot of money.

May have to try the "Grapes of Wrath" approach.  Thanks a
bunch.

Tyson
> 

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