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Re: torque setting

To: mgs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: torque setting
From: Chip Old <fold@mail.bcpl.lib.md.us>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 09:31:34 -0400 (EDT)
On Wed, 15 Oct 1997 JMerz140@aol.com wrote:

> I'd go with Skips recommendations.  I, and possibly the other two responses,
>  were quoting from the same WKF Woods book on rebuilding XPAGs which could be
> incorrect.

I agree.  The 29 lb/ft mentioned in Woody Woods' book is okay for an 8X1mm
bolt if it is of sufficient tensile strength and if it is screwed into a
nut, but that isn't the case here.  The 1mm pitch thread on that 8mm bolt
is pretty fine for screwing into cast iron, and you can easily strip the
threads out of the head if you overtighten.  Aim at at 20 - 23
lb/ft and you should be okay.

You also mentioned shims under the rocker stands.  Way back when, the
experts used to recommend shimming up the rocker stands to compensate for
a milled cylinder head.  This gives you back a usable valve lash
adjustment range without having to shorten the pushrods.  Trouble is,
putting shims under the rocker shaft pedestals seriously messes up the
geometry between the rocker arm and the valve stem, which can lead to
accelerated wear of the rocker tip, the valve stem tip, and the valve
guides.

The better solution is to use shortened pushrods.  Use shims under the
rocker shaft pedestals only if you need to correct the rocker to valve
geometry, not to compensate for a milled head.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Chip Old                      1948 M.G. TC  TC6710  NEMGTR #2271
Cub Hill, Maryland            1962 Triumph TR4  CT3154LO (daily driver)
fold@mail.bcpl.lib.md.us


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