If your crank has been damaged again the machine shop can save it
by adding metal to the crank, so no worry there. Make sure the mechanic
cleans all the oil ways and disassembles the pump. Whenever an engine
spins a bearing like yours did metal particles will be throughout the
engine and a simple wash down won't clean them all out. Also when the
crank is turned that to needs to be cleaned out.
...Art
On Sun, 19 Oct 1997, Scott Gardner wrote:
> Thanks for all the kind words-- We just got back in town today after
> our house-hunting trip in Norfolk. There's something to be said for
> having alternative non-British transportation. Riqui's 1986 Honda
> CRX has 166,000 miles on it, the engine has never been touched except
> to replace timing belts, and it got 35mpg average over the whole
> trip! Going 80 mph with the engine turning 3200 rpm was pretty nice,
> too.
> As far as the MGB goes, I'll have to wait until Monday to call him,
> but when we left last Monday, he had it up on the lift, looking at
> the bottom end before pulling the engine. Hopefully he's found out
> something by now.
> So far, we've determined that there is a problem in the oiling
> system that existed before and after the rebuild. It's not the
> relief valve spring, since that was replaced, but it could be the
> valve itself or the valve seat in the block. I'll have him replace
> the valve and lap it into the seat with some grinding compound. The
> opinions have been unanimous that the oil pressure relief valve
> should not have been opening at 55 psi, and that a newly-rebuilt
> engine should be putting out 70-80 psi.
> He is honoring the warranty fully, parts and labor. He seemed
> personally and professionally offended that one of 'his' rebuilds
> failed, and said he'd give me a different block if we can't find
> anything wrong with this one. He suspects that whatever caused the
> first failure caused this one, too, and is very motivated to find the
> problem, because he doesn't want to see the car back a third time!
> The only out-of pocket costs I'm looking at this time are for parts
> I didn't have him replace last time, such as the relief valve itself
> and new oil cooler lines. The oil cooler lines flushed out fine last
> time, but he just ran solvent through them using gravity, not
> pressure. It's possible that they may be failing under pressure,
> kind of like old brake lines.
> While he's at it, I told him about a few tiny oil leaks that sprung
> up since the rebuild, and he'll fix those. They weren't enough to
> cause a problem, the total seepage was probably a few ounces over
> 1200 miles, but while he's at it, I'll have him check it out.
> To answer the most frequent question other listers have asked--yes,
> the crank was turned and the block was line bored. The crank went
> from .010 under to .020 under. I just hope we can go to .030 under
> if need be, so as not to have to buy a new crank.
> I'll post more Monday after I've talked to John.
> Scott
>
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