Danny,
I agree with Nory, I had a similar problem with my "A" when I first
rebuilt the engine. After cleaning up the engine compartment from all
the bad wiring, and removing the resistor that was in series with the
coil, (after all no other "A" had the resistor) the car would run for
about 10 minutes or so. then die with no spark. The plastic insulators
on the points were melted.
Replacing the coil with one from Farm and Fleet, for a VW, and replacing
the points. no more problem. The VW coil was ~$10.00 and had an internal
resistor.
After checking the points and coil, remove the alternator and belt and
try to start the car. Only to test if the car will start. The car will
run for hours without charging the battery but needs to turn the water
pump to circulate the coolant. A bad alternator with shorted diodes can
discharge the battery pretty quick.
I'd also add to the list of things to do to a newly acquired car is an
oil and coolant change.
Chuck
Nory wrote:
>
> Hi Danny,
>
> The first thing I would do on any newly acquired car, whether it starts
> or not, is replace the standard tune-up parts: plugs, points, cap,
> rotor, condenser, wires. I realize you've already put some bucks into
> the alternator and coil, but I suggest you buy these items too.
> Assuming your new battery is good (have you tried jumping it again or
> recharging it?), these parts will solve a majority of firing problems,
> and will make it a little easier to start, even with a weakened battery.
> Make sure the plugs and points are set at the correct gap.
>
> Another possibility is the resistor. After you had it running, was the
> coil very hot? If you can jump the car and get it running for a while
> again, pay close attention to the coil. Touch it periodically
> (carefully) to check for excessive heat. A very hot coil is a sure sign
> of a bad resistance wire. You can splice in a Chrylser resistor (I can
> get the part number, and tell you how to hook it up, if this is your
> problem). Of course, your coil may be burned out already, if it got too
> hot the last time it was running. I went through three burned up coils
> before the tech advisor in our local club informed me what the problem
> was (I was a "green" mechanic too).
>
> Next, if you still have the old alternator, take it someplace and have
> it tested. It might not be bad at all. I hate to tell you that, since
> you already bought a new one, but if the new one doesn't seem to be
> charging the battery, you may have an open circuit somewhere that's
> draining the battery. This will involve a little detective work to
> solve the problem, and you can get great advice from the list here, but
> I would try the above items first and see if you can get it running
> again.
>
> With the new tune up parts, if you recharge the battery (a garage will
> do it cheap if you don't have a charger), it should start and run for a
> while even if you have an unknown drain on it. Replace the tune up
> items, charge the battery fully, start 'er up and feel the coil. You
> may find a $3.00 resister may solve the problem. It did for me.
>
> -NORY
> Don't assume that because you have found one problem, you have found the
> ONLY problem.
>
> '74 Midget & '71 parts car
> '94 Ford Ranger
> '86 Ford Escort
> '89 Ford Probe
> '96 North American Shepherd
> '94 Tigger Cat/Wheel Chock
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Way/9101
>
> NEW Home Improvement Homepage: http://www.angelfire.com/ny/nory
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