Hi Eric,
That seal is a BIG P.I.A.
The frame to body seal does "disappear" under the upright (the part that
looks like a foot). The overlap (or under lap) is only about 1/8" to 1/4"
at the edges. The bottom of the uprights is machined at about 90 degrees to
the channel in the bottom frame section. Make sure the new seal extends all
the way to that point on both sides.
As you have probably already noticed the new seal is curled up. Uncurl it
to the bottom of the upright and you will see how it goes.
When installing the frame to the body, start the center strut bolts first,
soap up the new seal then CAREFULLY pry it out using a hook tool. If you
don't start the center bolts, the seal will just curl under again because
the frame is not heavy enough to hold it out.
This is tough to describe with no pictures but I hope it will work out for
you. It's not really all that bad.
At 06:36 AM 5/15/98 -0700, Eric Zambori <eaz@snet.net> wrote:
>Thanks for the response but I have just one question concerning your
>answer.
>
>In the first paragraph you say the main seal "should be continuous till
>it disappears under the frame upright".
>
>In the second paragraph you say "The ends of the seal should be
>trimmed to be flush with the edges of the uprights".
>
>These two statements seem to contradict themselves. If trimming is
>correct, should I do it prior to installation or when the assembly is
>partially installed and still loose enough so the scrap piece can be
>removed.
>
>By the way, I installed the main seal a couple of weeks ago. It took me
>an hour and a half. The tip of my middle finger on my left hand hurt
>for about 3 days afterword because of the way I was holding the seal in
>place while I used a blunt screwdriver in my right hand to force the
>seal into its channel. I hope I don't need to do this job ever again!
>
>THANKS
>Eric Zambori
>
Steve Bettencourt
'79 MGB
Steve's HotRod World
http://www3.edgenet.net/CruizinRI
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