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> ---------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: Farina Magnette Future??
> Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 17:05:10 -0700
> From: neil.cairns@virgin.net
> To: MGMagnette@aol.com
> CC: mgs@autoc.team.net
>
> The road to successfully restoring a car like the Farina MG is going to
> be a difficult one. Ulike the MGA/MGB, where people remanufacture the
> bits required, such cars as the ADO9G and ADO38G are going to be few and
> far between in the USA. There a not many in its country of origin
> infact!! You can buy virtually any bit for the common MG's, by that I
> mean those that are popular. It is a shame infact to see rows and rows
> of beautifully restored MGA's and MGB's, each having had 1000's of hours
> spent on it. But then there are many of them. A Farina will certainly
> stand out at any meeting/rally, as does the 1100/1300 ADO16. ( ADO
> stands for Austin Design Office, and its the system used by BMC after
> the MG system of DO and EX numbering for " Experimental.")
>
> Structurally, the Farina is quite easy to repair, most parts are simple
> 'top-hat' folded sheet steel sections, and quite DIY easy. The front
> floor " outriggers" are simple floor stiffeners, far to complex for
> their function. In the UK we usually fit a triangular repair section
> over the lot, it is just as strong, but some prefer to be original and
> make up the two sections.
>
> If the front wings, ( fenders,) are removed, you will find corrosion (
> rust) between the top inner wing and windscreen frame. Just like the
> MGB, the steel section that stiffens the inner wing rots away. The door
> posts, ( 'A' posts,) rot at their base, under the lower edge of the
> wing. Again, letting in sheet steel sections, home made, is fairly easy.
> Yes, those heavy doors need to come off, as the rear of the wing is
> BOLTED under the doors hinges, where as the bonnet ( hood) edges are
> spot welded.
>
> All the mechanical parts, except the front suspension, are simply MGA
> 1500 parts. The front suspension is Austin Healey, less the disc brakes.
>
> The steering box is awful even when new. It is shimmed inside, and if
> care is taken to gets the clearances as per the workshop manusl, the
> free play on the steering wheel can be got down to just two inches. The
> steering idler wears as well, as do the king pins, ( swivel pins, Austin
> Healey again...)
>
> Windscreen and rear window seals are hard to find, pray your originals
> are in good condition. Earlpart sell them, but its off a long roll, and
> the stainless steel trim often will not stay re-fitted. It pops out.
>
> Bumpers are good thick steel, and will rechrome, if the dents and holes
> are filled with brazing. The headlamp surrounds are MAZAK, and cannot be
> rechromed. The side trim is BRASS, and easily rechromes. I make up 'U'
> shaped clips for the side trim to clip onto, pop-rivetting these onto
> the wings. MGB clips are smaller, alas.
>
> Brake parts are common, shared with both Hillman ( Rootes,) and UK Ford
> models.
>
> All the plastic lenses are hard to find, both front sidelamp/indicator,
> and rear lamp assemblies. The sun crazes them. The amber indicator lens
> is Lucas part number LH 53792F,RH 53793F; the red indicator lens (USA)
> LH 53794F,RH 53795F, just incase you find a supply. The rear lamp
> assembly was also used on the Riley 4/68 and 4/72, equivalent models to
> the MG Mk3 and MG Mk4 Magnettes. In the UK old/new stocks of these
> lamps, complete assemblies, sell for £77 each. ( NTG prices.)
>
> Just to cheer John up, a chap in Guernsey, ( an island off the UK south
> cost, near France,) has just spent over £8,000 on rebuilding a Mk4
> Magnette, with many new parts. His $2000 would be cheap this side of the
> ocean.
>
> Neil.
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