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[Fwd: Thermostat Differences and dumb things]

To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fwd: Thermostat Differences and dumb things]
From: Karl Shultz <karl.shultz@ibm.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:34:24 +0000
All,

let me come out and recommend Red Line's Water Wetter product.  Putting
that stuff in my cooling system (73 B) made a difference I could see on
the gauge.  Apparently it's some type of surfactant - I don't know the
ins and outs, but I do know that it works.

Check out www.redlineoil.com for more info.

xyzabcde@earthlink.net wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I've run a 160 degree thermostat in my '67B in Southern California for lo 
>these
> many years.  The car runs consistently at 170 degrees.  The only benefit to 
>this
> over a 180 degree thermostat is that I have the extra time it takes the car to
> heat up those extra ten degrees before the car overheats when stuck in 
>traffic.
> Even though the thermostat is open all time, it still restricts the coolant 
>flow
> enough to prevent the problems associated with having no thermostat.
> 
> The down side to this is that, in cold weather, the car never heats up enough 
>to
> run well.  If the car doesn't get up to 170, it dies at idle.  When I get
> someplace with better weather and traffic, I plan to put a 180 degree 
>thermostat
> in.  The optimum would be a 170 degree thermostat, but these aren't available.
> 
> In one of my attempts to solve the Southern California traffic overheating
> problem, I had a three row core put in a B radiator.  But I stupidly left it 
>in
> the car that went to Norway so I have no idea if this would have helped or 
>not.
> The car also had a 160 degree thermostat.  The poor guy who bought it is still
> probably trying to figure out why the car won't warm up. :-}
> 
> So, I'm still driving with a 160 degree thermostat and I just stop and do my
> water jug dance over the radiator when the car gets too hot in traffic.  It
> probably looks a lot like a one-person Chinese Fire Drill.
> 
> Just my exciting experiences in B driving. :-}
> 
> Denise Thorpe
> 
> Max Heim wrote:
> >
> > To my way of thinking, a 160 thermostat makes no sense at all. The car
> > isn't going to run that cold under any normal conditions, so it'll be
> > open all the time anyway. Might as well not have one. If it did run that
> > cold by some fluke, it would actually contribute to inefficient
> > combustion (too low an operating temperature). So you were right with the
> > 180.
> >
> > For reference, my 66 B runs dead on 190 (according to the gauge, FWIW),
> > unless idling motionless on a hot day (200-210+) or driving home from
> > Giants night games (150-170, kinda makes the heater useless).
> >
> > Glad you got out of that "sticky wicket" OK. Watch out for the open carb
> > throats as well...
> >
> > Michael Graziano had this to say:
> >
> > >Hey all.  Just a quick question, and a quick story.....
> > >
> > >1.  WHat's the difference between a 160 degree and a 180 degree thermostat
> > >besides 20 degrees?  i.e. which should be used when?  And when I went to
> > >change mine,  I found that the DPO didn't have one installed.  Is this
> > >indicative of overheating problems?

-- 
Karl Shultz
95 Integra GS-R, black, loud
73 MGB, orange, only marginally drivable

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