----- Original Message -----
From: David Hill <davhill@cwcom.net>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 26, 1999 9:42 PM
Subject: Axle Pointers
> Hello, Ladies & Gentlemen.
>
> I'm soon to put an exchange reconditioned axle on my '72B. Any
help/opinions
> on these two points would be welcome....
Be extremely careful not to bump the input flange of the new axle on the
ground, it can easily destroy the pre-load. otherwise it is all fairly
straightforward. When bolting up the prop-shaft to the diff flange make
absolutely sure both surfaces are clean and correctly aligned when you
tighten the bolts. It is possible to tighten the bolts but have them
misaligned, then when you drive the car they move into alignment which
loosens the bolts. Because the diff oil is so thick it can take time to
level off, which means that you may end up with less than you thought you
had. As it happened I was able to fill mine at the end of one day, then top
it off agin at the start of the next. Double-check all nuts/bolts, take it
for a short drive (I took mine less than a mile round the block) then
recheck them and the oil level again. Then take it for progressively longer
trips - I did a 40-miler then a 400-miler, checking nuts/bolts and oil level
after each.
> Can I take out the halfshaft/bearing /collar assemblies without taking the
> hubs off the halfshafts?
I can imagine that you could, but wouldn't that mean the backplate would be
dangling between the hub and the bearing cover? Does your new axle not have
half-shafts, bearings, oil-seals and covers? If you don't remove the hubs
you will not be able to fit new oil seals, this may not be a good idea.
> Should a new diff be run in?
Sounds reasonable to me.
PaulH.
http://freespace.virgin.net/paul.hunt1/
(or if that URL doesn't work try )
(http://194.168.54.52/paul.hunt1)
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