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Re: Floor panel replacement

To: James Nazarian Jr <James.Nazarian@Colorado.EDU>,
Subject: Re: Floor panel replacement
From: Dan Dwelley <ddwelley@excite.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 10:42:55 -0800 (PST)
Thanks Jim,

Murphey struck...as soon as I finished and sent the email...my coffee buzz
settled in and I remembered...I just got too lazy to resubmit another email.
:o)

Dan

On Mon, 27 Mar 2000 11:07:26 -0700 (MST), James Nazarian Jr wrote:

>  plug weld
>  
>  James Nazarian
>  '71 B roadster
>  '71 BGT rust free and burnt orange
>  '63 Buick 215 
>  
>  On Mon, 27 Mar 2000, Dan Dwelley wrote:
>  
>  > Craig,
>  > 
>  > I think I would make use of that 1" lip. I would drill 1/8" holes in
the
>  > center of the lip every 2 to 3 inches then Clamp the floor panel in
place
>  > and weld through the holes to the inner sill. This will simulate a spot
type
>  > weld. There is a name for this procedure...yet I can't for the life of
me
>  > remember it at this moment. None The less, this will make for a solid
floor.
>  > Remember, you're not drilling hole into the inner sill...only through
the
>  > lip of the new floor pan.
>  > 
>  > Good Luck and have fun,
>  > 
>  > Dan Dwelley
>  > 77 Midget
>  > Alexandria, Va.
>  > 
>  > 
>  > On Sun, 26 Mar 2000 20:44:05 -0500, Craig D. Niederst wrote:
>  > 
>  > >  The passenger side floor pan on my '71 B needs replacing (thought it
>  > could
>  > >  be patched, but there would be more patch there than floor pan). The
pan
>  > has
>  > >  rusted from the inside down due to water that had gotten into the
car. It
>  > >  looks like water was definitely sitting along the inner sill wall,
and
>  > thus
>  > >  has rusted through in some places. In trying to remove the pan, it
>  > appears
>  > >  the DPO attempted to repair the floor previously. The DPO's repair
was to
>  > >  rivet a new lip onto the bottom of the sill area under the car for a
1
>  > foot
>  > >  or so length of the pan, and then riveted it to the badly rusted
floor
>  > (this
>  > >  repair was nicely hidden by undercoating from underneath, BTW). The
>  > >  crossmembers under the floor pan are solid, as are the jacking point
and
>  > lip
>  > >  along the tranny tunnel. The new floor pan I bought is a Steelcraft
pan,
>  > and
>  > >  it has the 1" or so vertical lip around its perimeter. Since the lip
>  > along
>  > >  the sill is in poor shape, would a seam weld attaching this lip to
the
>  > inner
>  > >  sill wall be enough for a sound floor on the sill side? Also, does
the
>  > floor
>  > >  pan provide structural strength to the spring hanger? The floor pan
>  > around
>  > >  the spring hanger on the passenger side again rusted from the inside
down
>  > >  (about 1" of the front of the bracket is now visible from inside the
>  > car),
>  > >  but the bracket is undamaged and is solidly in place. Does this need
>  > >  repaired additionally for structural concerns, or is this just
cosmetic?
>  > >  BTW, any ideas on how much a welding repair like this should cost? I
am
>  > >  removing the floor pan my self (or at least trying to), and will be
>  > >  providing the new floor pan. TIA
>  > >  
>  > >  Craig
>  > >  '71 B
>  > >  
>  > 
>  > 
>  > Dan Dwelley
>  > 77 Midget
>  > Alexandria, Va.
>  > 
>  > 
>  > 
>  > 
>  > 
>  > Get 100% FREE Internet Access powered by Excite
>  > Visit http://freelane.excite.com/freeisp
>  > 
>  


Dan Dwelley
77 Midget
Alexandria, Va.





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