Sheila,
I can guess how you got the fan switch out, I finally gave up on mine and
used the BFH approach, actually a screw driver from the front to pop off the
switch and then force the wire hanger out the back followed by forcing the
rest out the front. The operative word here is force. I finally got my
order in from The Proper MG and didn't want to mess around with the blasted
switch anymore. I have to replace my steering boots as one is ripped.
There's been quite a bit on that operation on the list so that's my next
project so I can get back on the road again. We actually had a couple of
nice days here in Oregon and I had to leave my car in the drive way, what a
bummer. At least the lawn is mowed, my kids have left home and it's now up
to the old man (expletive deleted!).
Dave 72 B
-----Original Message-----
From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>
To: Sheila Stokes-Begley <brigid@solve.net>; mgs@autox.team.net
<mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, April 26, 2000 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: tips? 71 MGB-GT
>At 07:46 PM 4/26/2000 -0500, Sheila Stokes-Begley wrote:
>>My 71 MGB-GT (Millicent) has been up on blocks for about the last 3 years
>.... Prior to this the heater fan worked. .... she began a screaming sort
>of noise, .... Now .... the heater fan doesn't work, and it worked just
>fine before. .... I had been hoping it would be something simple to get to
>like maybe a dirt dauber nest in the fan, ha, nothing so easy ....
>
>Well, maybe not too easy, but maybe not too expensive either (like really
>cheap) if you don't mind playing around with it a little. This sounds like
>a classic case of dry bronze bushings in the heater motor. A couple of
>drops of lubricant in the right spots can probably work wonders.
>Unfortunately, the right spots aren't always that easy to get at. Where
>have we heard that before? You know you have to do some things before you
>take some things off, and you have to take some things off before you do
>other things, and you want to get everything done right before you have to
>put things back on. ;-) (Sorry, couldn't resist.)
>
>Anyway, you will need to remove the heater blower motor from the heater
>box, then maybe remove the squirrel cage blower from the shaft just to get
>to the working end of the shaft to oil it there. To get to the tail end
>bearing you have to part the motor case in the middle and pull the shell
>off, in which case the carbon brushes like to pop out of place. This is
>one of those golden opportunities to replace the carbon brushes if they are
>a little short. You can often find suitable replacement parts at a local
>hardware store.
>
>Once you get the shaft and bushings all oiled up you can have a lot of fun
>getting it together again, particularly figuring out how to hold the
>brushes just right so they slip past and just rub on either side of the
>commutator on the way in. ..... ..... Hell, I can't explain this in public
>with a straight face. Reassembly is there reverse of disassembly, so just
>feel your way through and figure it out as you go. Sometimes things go
>together easier if you turn the lights out first. <Flame Suit ON>
>
>I've been working to hard,
>
>Barney Gaylord
>1958 MGA with an attitude
> http://www.ntsource.com
>
>
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