I seem to recall this post. The warning as I recall was not to use the
silver anti-seize on plugs. I got a real chuckle out of this as for over 30
years I have used nothing but silver anti-seize on plugs (and every other
threaded fastener that need it). In over 30 years of wrenching on a
professional basis, I have never had a pulled thread, or had to install a
heli-coil on a plug that I had previously removed. So unless someone has
documented evidence like a TSB from a car maker or plug maker I'm chalking
this up to an automotive urban legend.
Now to the problem at hand. The secret to keeping threads in good shape is
to make sure that they are clean, use anti-seize, don't cross thread when
starting, and torque the plug to spec. I use a thread chaser made by K-D
(available at auto parts store) When you get the plug removed run the thread
chaser through the hole to clean the threads. Gap the plug, as place a dab
of anti-seize on the threads, I also use dielectric grease on the porcelain
to aid in release of the boot the at the next plug change. Start the plug
with either with a plug starter, or a piece of hose, with clean threads it
should screw in easily. Torque to spec. If the plug is taper seat it has a
much different torque spec! If you are not sure look it up!
Like I said this has worked for me for tens of thousands of plugs, but hey
what do I know?
In a message dated 05/23/2000 11:34:27 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> Oooh, I think you might want to search the archive on this one. I know
> there was a post on this subject which warned never to use anti-seize (or
> maybe just certain anti-seize products) with aluminum heads as it had
> some sort of chemical reaction which froze the spark plugs in place,
> similar to what you experienced. Or can the original author confirm this?