Hi Chris,
You should be able to do this yourself. First, do NOT break off any more of the
bolt or stud that remains. That was a gift from your guardian angel. CAREFULLY,
try to coax the other bolts or studs lose. If you detect any movement, apply
some
good penetrating oil, (i.e.: Kroil and PB Blaster seem better than WD-40 and
Liquid Wench), working the thread CCW (counterclockwise), then go back 1/4 turn
CW. This technique is very similar to the method used to tap a thread. Once
those
bolts, nuts or studs are removed, you can focus your attention on the broken
bolt.
Apply more of that good penetrating oil to the remaining stud several times over
the course of 30 minutes. You may want to heat it gently with a propane torch.
Get
it hot but not so much that it glows.
Yes, the oil will ignite, so be prepared for it, and blow it out (or snuff it
with
a water-wetted rag). You want to be sure you can see the alignment of the stud
changing as you turn it, so, make a line on the broken surface from L-R or front
to rear using a fine water proof marker, or a pencil. When the threaded stud is
still hot - warm, give the juncture of the stud and the head another shot of
penetrating oil. Let everything cool down. A good sized locking pliers
(Vise-Grip
or RoboGrip are good) should now be used to grab the stud and carefully work it
CCW and CW until it starts turning freely. MAKE SURE THE STUD IS TURNING, or it
will break again. If it is not turning, heat it, oil it, try turning it, heat
it,
oil it, try turning it.... until it does turn.
This should do it, but remember this sage advice:
"If you need to use a lot of muscle... you are doing it WRONG!"
Good luck, and welcome to the looney bin.
Jim
(the old guy; There is another of us with the same name. He is my son, James. I
taught him everything I knew about MG's, and somehow he ends up knowing more
than
I do.... Go figure!)
Chris Rose wrote:
> Hi all
>
> I have been lurking for around a month, but this is my first posting.
>
> I've got a quick question. I have recently aquired a 1963 MGB Roadster, from
> my dad, who loving re-built it when I was a child and has had the car for over
> 20 years.
>
> Its mine because it has been standing in my dad's garage ever since he had a
> motorbike accident and was unable to drive the car any more (pedals were too
> heavy for his damaged knee) I couldn't bear to see the car go and so, when he
> wanted to sell it, I took it from him.
>
> Its suffering all the normal problems of a car which has stood for a while,
> and I am working on those. However, I am not a mechanical genius, and have a
> question.
>
> Whilst replacing some corroded cooling system pipes, one of the bolts which
> goes from the engine head and holds the thermostat housing in place sheared
> off while I was tightening the nut.
>
> I am assuming that this is not an integral part of the engine, and is probably
> a bolt which uses a reverse thread and so can be replaced. However, could
> anyone advise me the best way to remove this bolt? (its broken about halfway
> up, and so I don't think it was a case of me over tightening.) Should I try
> flattening off the top of the bolt and using a wrench to try and unscrew it,
> or should I break it lower down and drill out the remaining part?
>
> Also, it was the final bolt I was trying to fasten and, despite the break, the
> system does not appear to be leaking any water from the cooling system. Do I
> risk driving the car around 30 miles to a trusted mechanic friend, and get him
> to help me, or is this a job which I should be able to do myself?
>
> Any tips from anyone who has done this before themselves would be very much
> appreciated. What I want to try and avoid is damaging anything else whilst
> trying to fix this problem.
>
> Many thanks
>
> Chris Rose
> 1963 MGB Roadster
|