Hi, All
I have had one of these screw-type joint breakers for years-a Sykes
Pickavant one. It works brilliantly for its intended purpose and also works
well on 'moderns' for pressing out the non-tapered pins at the bottom oh the
hub carrier on a McPherson Strut suspension. This is where the manual says
(sic), 'remove the wishbone pin from the hub carrier'.
A little tipette for breaking ball joints. You can apply a high poundage
(tonnage) with these tools but just pushing rarely works. Experience has
taught me to tighten the breaker hard, then give the end a tap with a hard
(steel) hammer. The shock is enough for the joint to get the message.
BTW, I've never damaged a joint rubber with this tool.
Cheers,
Dave H.
Can I Telework for you? See what I do, at...
http://www.angelfire.com/biz4/davtel/index.html
Troubled by a phobia? Know someone who has one? Go to...
http://www.angelfire.com/de/ukphobias/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>
To: <djw69@idt.net>
Cc: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2000 2:31 PM
Subject: Re: Separating tie rod from steering rod
> Dave,
> Someone who is familiar with the two-hammer separation method that the
> Moss catalogue describes can have good results, very quickly. One
> cringes to contemplate the damage possible with a couple of mis-placed
> hammer blows.
> Rental shops have a screw-operated separator tool that is nothing more
> than a pair of jaws that are forced apart by a large screw that is turned
> by a wrench. Using one of these is unlikely to get one into any trouble.
> They will nick you for half a day's rent. You will use the thing for
> about 30 seconds per tie-rod end. Every neighborhood, or group of LBC
> friends should own one.
> Another tool is called a "pickle fork" This works OK, but you hammer
> it into the joint to effect the separation, so there is greater risk to
> the rubber seal.
> Bob
>
>
> On Mon, 29 May 2000 16:17:50 -0700 "Dave Wood" <djw69@idt.net> writes:
> > I'm trying to replace my steering rack boots today and using the
> > advise in
> > the Moss catalog. I can't seem to get the tie rod to separate from
> > the
> > steering arm. I loosened the tie rod adjuster nut as indicated,
> > jacked it
> > up a haft inch or so on the nut and beat on the steering rod but no
> > luck on
> > separating. I don't want to replace the tie rod ends as they appear
> > tight
> > and their boots are fine. Would it help to unbolt the steering arm?
> > Any
> > suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I have been pounding as
> > close as I
> > can get to the tie rod end from the rear. It seems to me that I hit
> > it hard
> > enough to separate anything not welded, but I am wondering if all of
> > the
> > shock is been taken by the steering arm rather than the connection?
> >
> > Dave 72 B
> >
>
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