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Re: 70 MGB no start after complete rebuild UPDATE

To: "Dereck C" <derex39@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 70 MGB no start after complete rebuild UPDATE
From: "Lawrie Alexander" <Lawrie@britcars.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 08:13:05 -0700
Dereck.......

Lack of oil in the dashpots will not prevent the car from starting but will
result in a momentary lean condition when you open the throttle.

Make sure there are no old rubber washers in the bases of the float bowls. I
have often found new jets jammed in on top of old ones. You should be able
to see aluminum in the hole where the jet tube threads in. Then you push the
new rubber washer back a quarter inch or so along the new jet tube and
carefully aim the tube into the center of the hole in the float bowl, before
starting to thread the nut into the hole. This will ensure that the tube is
not blocked by the new seal.

Lawrie
British Sportscar Center

-----Original Message-----
From: Dereck C <derex39@hotmail.com>
To: Lawrie@britcars.com <Lawrie@britcars.com>
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, August 17, 2000 5:21 AM
Subject: 70 MGB no start after complete rebuild UPDATE


>I got a little further last night before the sun went down and I could no
>longer see.  I retimed to TDC and the rotor pointed directly at number one
>piston.  I timed it so the points where just opening (counter clockwise)
and
>attached the wires in the 1-3-4-2 arrangement.  Cranked it and nothing
>changed.  Then I cranked it with a bit of starter fluid - vroom for about 2
>seconds.  So I deduced that there was a fuel starvation problem, which I
>already thought was a problem because I never really smelled gas on the
>plugs or in the carbs.  So I took the twin SU HS4's off and checked out the
>jet to float bowl connection.  Seems that the rubber washer was interfering
>with the flow, it was crushed into the float bowl.  It seems to me that the
>jet fuel-lines are a bit short (same size as the old ones).  Then I
>reinstalled the carbs after carefully insuring that the rubber washers did
>not get crushed into the float bowl (still not sure that it worked).  I
>attempted to start the car, no go.  Then with starter fluid - vroom for 2
>seconds.  By this time it was too dark outside and I had to close up shop.
>To things that I believe did not help the final attempt was that the
battery
>was getting very weak (trickle charged last night) and I forgot to top up
>the dashpots.  Will lack of oil in the dashpots result in fuel starvation?
>How do you keep from crushing the carb-jet-to-float-bowl washer?
>
>Dereck
>70 B
>
>
>
>----Original Message Follows----
>From: "Lawrie Alexander" <Lawrie@britcars.com>
>To: "Dereck C" <derex39@hotmail.com>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: 70 MGB no start after complete rebuild
>Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 07:35:26 -0700
>
>Instead of guessing at the ignition timing, why not set it properly and
>eliminate the possibility that incorrect timing is the reason for your
>non-starting? Here's what you do.........
>
>Bring the engine to top dead center on Nos. 1 and 4.
>Take off the valve cover and see which pair of rocker arms are loose on
>their valves, No. 1 or No.4.
>Replace the valve cover.
>Take off the distributor cap.
>Look at the points; the rubbing block should be on one of the lobes of the
>distributor cam and the points should be just opened. (Remember, the
>distributor cam rotates counter clockwise). If this is not so, loosen the
>distributor and make it so.
>Look at the distributor cap. Remember which cylinder had the loose rockers
>(Step 2, above). Determine which of the four contacts in the cap is closest
>to the brass end of the rotor, then take the plug wire from that terminal
to
>whichever of No. 1 or No. 4 had the loose rockers. Then replace the cap
and,
>going counter clockwise, fit the rest of the wires in the order 1-3-4-2.
>
>Now you know the timing is in a near-enough position that the engine should
>start so you can then set the timing correctly. Incidentally, timing with a
>timing light should be done when the engine is running, not statically.
>
>Lawrie
>British Sportscar Center
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Dereck C <derex39@hotmail.com>
>To: dcouncil@imt.net <dcouncil@imt.net>; derex39@hotmail.com
><derex39@hotmail.com>; mgs@autox.team.net <mgs@autox.team.net>
>Date: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 7:27 AM
>Subject: Re: 70 MGB no start after complete rebuild
>
>
> >
> >Sorry, I changed the wires too.  When you say remove the distributor and
>put
> >it in 180 the other way, there is only one way that the chuck (proper
>term?)
> >will line up on this model - the slots are offset.  I was just going to
> >rotate the wires 180 degrees.  Won't that work?  Or should I remove the
> >distributor drive gear and reinsert it 180 degrees.  Honestly, I don't
see
> >how that would make a difference.  If it does please please enlighten me.
>I
> >am close to my wits end.
> >
> >Dereck
>
>
>
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