You must check for spark on all leads, if nothing else clip on a timing
light and hold it where you can see it flashing if you have to be in the
cabin to crank it over. Check the plug lead order - 1342 anti-clockwise.
Check the points open just before TDC (isn't critical just to get it
running) with the rotor pointing to No.1 lead with No.1 cylinder on its
compression stroke (both valves closed). If the plugs are dry and don't
smell much it could be insufficient fuel. If they are wet it is flooding.
Should be dry but with a strong smell of petrol. If you can smell petrol
with the plugs in you either have a leak or you have flooded it.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: William Killeffer <wtkilleffer@tn.freei.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2000 10:42 PM
Subject: update
> Thanks to the suggestions of several helpful listers, at least some of my
> problems have been solved.
> Now, the car is getting juice at the points, as evidenced by the sparking
> when I open and close them with a screwdriver. I took pains to make sure
> they are gapped at a nice, middle of the road .015". However, I'm still
not
> getting the car to fire up.
> It cranks just fine and the dizzy cap is clean with neither cracks nor
> blemishes. The coil is also new. The spark plugs are new Autolites gapped
at
> .025, and I replaced the wires with the premium Autolite wires from
Advance
> Auto parts.
> Since I was solo tonite, I have to assume that the plugs are getting
juice.
> That means the problem is probably that of fuel delivery, but the engine
> smells like its getting fuel.
> When all this started happening, I was tuning the carbs. They are still in
a
> tuning state, with the jet and throttle interconnects loosened and the
choke
> disconnected. The SU tuning book instructs to have the throttles opened to
1
> and a half turns from when the screws first make contact and the jets
> lowered about 1 and 1 half turns from the jets being level with the bridge
> of the carbs. My experience shows that this produces a very rich mixture
and
> 3000 rpm idle.
> Since the book instructs that all this be done at normal operating
> temperature, is it possible that the carbs are giving more gas than the
> engine can use right now? What sort of carb adjustments should I try now?
If
> lack of spark at the plugs is the issue, what's the next step there?
> Thanks for your time, patience, and help. You all have been a wonderful
> resource for me during a trying time.
>
> -William Killeffer
> 1974 MGB that may see a hint of light at the end of the tunnel
>
>
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