Well I checked the second fuse from bottom tonight, and it was
definitely burned out - don't know how I missed that yesterday.
The not-so-DPO apparently had used a 15A fuse. After replacing
it with a 20A fuse, all guages were functioning normally again.
I'll replace all the fuses with 17/35 ones, the next time I get
to the local MG shop.
Thanks for all the good advice!
>yup, the second from the bottom in the fuse block under the bonnet.
>
>
> > I had the same exact guages go out on me this weekend. Annoyingly they
> > would come back to life occasionally when I hit bumps in the road. Are
> > you referring to the 2nd from bottom (of four) in the engine compartment
> > or a different fuse?
> >
> > >Mark,
> > >I just went through a similar situation onthe way to Brit car show in
> > >Wadsworth, Ohio last weekend. Same gauges too. I found the fuse
>(second
> > >one from bottom) had just enough corrorsion to prevent contact.
> > Clean the
> > >fuse and the little copper spring clips that hold it in. It's a pretty
> > >common problem.
> > >HTH
> > >
> > >Safety Fast!
> > >Gordie Bird
> > >'62 MGA
> > >'80 MGB LE
> > >'86 Audi 4kq
> > >
> > > > Some of the dash instruments and switches are not working -- however
> > >it's
> > > > not all of them, and it's not all the time. The items that
> > do work all
> > > > the time are: the clock, oil pressure gauge, horn, and
> > speedometer. The
> > > > ones that do not work (about half the time) are the temperature
> > >indicator,
> > > > tachometer, fuel gauge, turn signal switch, and windshield
> > wiper switch.
> > > > Also, the cooling fan does not come on when the instruments aren't
> > > > working. I'm sure that there is some common switch or fuse
> > among these
> > > > intermittent items, but I can't seem to find it.
_________________________________________________________________
///
/// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
|