Hi Paul,
There's something I don't understand about all this. If the Opus
is working all right, why do you want to replace it?
There's an old saying: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
Cheers,
CR
Paul Root wrote:
> paul.hunt1@virgin.net wrote:
>
>>If you do have the Opus ('Opeless) system then you should already have a
>>solid-state trigger (magnetic) in place of points, which is all the
>>Pertronix is.
>>
>
> Ok, what you are saying here is, 1) why replace the same with the
> same
> and 2) the Opus is junk. So that's a little confusing. But, I
> didn't want
> to have the big Crane EI box addition. I'm also believing the
> Pertronix
> is going to be more dependable.
>
>
>> The Opus system needs the 6v (1.5ohm) coil and two ballasted
>>supplies. One was the loom ballast used on all rubber bumper MGBs and had a
>>white (or white/brown) at the fuse-box end and a white/light-green at the
>>coil end. The other was a resistor for the electronics that had a
>>white/blue to the distributor. The distributor also had a full12v
>>unballasted supply.
>>
>
> I pulled out my Bentley Manual to follow along. Yes, White from
> fuse box
> into the resistor and White/Light-green to + on the coil.
>
> Also, on the white side of the resistor, 2 more whites come out,
> one to
> another resistor, which comes out White/Blue to the distributor
> and another
> white straight to the distributor. The other wire to the
> distributor is
> White/Black, and goes to the - on the coil and on to the Tach.
> That all looks
> good.
>
>
>>If the Opus electronics have been disabled in some way, and you have points
>>firing the coil directly, then you can replace the points with the
>>Pertronix.
>>
>
> No, the Opus is running.
>
>
>>With either points or Pertronix, to use a 12v (3 ohm) coil you must have a
>>full 12v (white) to the coil +ve and not the ballasted 12v
>>(white/light-green). Again with both systems to use a 6v coil you must have
>>a ballasted 12v on the coil +ve.
>>
>
> Ok, this is what I wanted. When I put the coil in I use the
> White, and by-pass
> the White/light-green. As to the resistor going into the
> distributor, that may
> or may not be used depending on the install instructions of the
> Pertronix. I'm
> guessing.
>
>
>>You really should determine exactly what you currently have, in the shape of
>>12v or 6v coil, ballast or no ballast, points or Opus trigger, and Opus
>>electronics or not before you change anything.
>>
>
> Right. No points, stock coil (I'm sure it is). Of course, it's
> put away, I can't
> even look at it.
>
>
> So I scanned in the wiring diagram, and I'm going to color it in.
> I see that
> Skye has that already, but just for the '75, I'm doing the '76
> and '77 supplement.
>
>
>
>
> Paul.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Paul Root" <proot@iaces.com>
>>To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
>>Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 2:54 PM
>>Subject: Pertronix ignition and coil
>>
>>
>>>Hi all,
>>>Thanks to a generous gift certificate to the Little
>>>British Car Company from Jim Schulte, I bought a pertronix.
>>>
>>>I'm certain I have the correct EI, the LU-141 for my
>>>'77B. It has a dizzy with the big block on the side, the
>>>amplifier. The Moss catalog calls it the 'Opus'.
>>>
>>>Anyway, I think I bought the wrong coil, but I also
>>>think, it probably doesn't matter. I got the 3 OHM 40,000v
>>>Flame Thrower. A quick glance at the install instructions said
>>>that this is for non-ballasted systems, and if you want
>>>ballasted,
>>>then get the 1.5 OHM or remove the ballast.
>>>
>>>So, should I return it or remove the ballast? And the
>>>ballast is the resistor block on the side right?
///
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