1). On the carb needle oil cap "popping up" thing - I had the exact same
thing happen to me. These cars ARE amazing and will keep going and going
with things like this wrong with it! The problem with mine when this
happened was that the plastic threads on the cap were somewhat stripped and
wouldn't hold tight in the alloy dashpot of the carb. To "fix" it I removed
the gasket, exposing a few more threads, and it has held and worked just
fine ever since (15 years). Now that you've made me think about it, I have
never bothered to replace the stripped cap/gasket!
30 day warranty???? Who gives a 30 day warranty on a 71 year model car????
Wow! That's an unusual one. AND, it looks like you're going to need it too -
on the transmission!
2). IF everything else is working well in the clutch/tranny, and IF there is
no other problems, the clutch pedal depresses fully, no creep at stop, gears
engage easily everywhere else, no other grinding and it is JUST third gear
grinding when you shift into it, that means that almost certainly you have
got a worn/bad 3rd. gear synchronizer and it will require replacement. This
is an expensive job in that the whole engine/tranny unit has to come out as
a unit and the tranny will have to be completely disassembled to repair the
syncro.
Because of how seldom this area usually has to be accessed, and how
difficult it is, you SHOULD do other "normal maintenance" stuff while you
are in there that deep such as, at a minimum, at least replacing the
throw-out bearing, clutch disc and probably the clutch plate.
Inspecting/resurfacing the flywheel and replacing the pilot bearing are some
"options" that I usually do while I'm in this deep. The other tranny syncros
and bearings should be also be closely inspected too (by an experienced MG
tech that knows what to look for in this model). The second gear syncro is
especially prone to problem too. Of course gaskets and seals, especially the
tranny front and engine rear seal, should be replaced as just a normal part
of the repair. This is just a common sense logical approach to doing the job
right. Otherwise, you WILL be right back in there again soon.
One thing that you might try before doing all of the above tranny work -
Lots of people (DPO's - dumb previous owners) put 90 weight gear-lube in the
tranny, like many American cars use, but MGB's should have 30 weight
non-detergent motor oil in them. If the grinding is minimal, it could be
caused/contributed to by the heavier viscosity of the 90 weight gearlube
causing too much drag on the syncros. Try changing the oil and see if that
cures/helps the problem. Sure made a difference with mine when I experienced
a similar issue with a "slight" grind.
Let me know how the "warranty" thing goes. It'll be interesting to hear back
about this!
-Jerry Erbesfield
73 B Black Beauty roadster
jerbesfield@mediaone.net
website- http://people.atl.mediaone.net/jerbesfield
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Mike Nordling
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 8:18 PM
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Correction: Carb question, grinding into third
Sorry its the oil cap nut, that is being popped out.>
>
> Hello all.
>
> Just brought my first MGB 1971 home and with the snow finally
> gone in Boston it was time to hit the streets for some fun. What
> a blast! Mom was taken back to her 66 which we used to ride
> around in growing up. (no belts needed!)
>
> I have 2 questions please:
>
> 1. When I was all done driving and looked under the hood for a
> visual check, I noticed that one of the carb needles (the more
> aft one had "popped" up and was just sitting there on top with
> the washer) Car didn't seem to run rough but now that i think
> about it, it was a "little" rough at idle. What would cause this?
> This could be caused by my newness to the manual choke maybe it
> was too rich for too long?? This car is still under a 30 day
> warranty so I would like to know if it's serious or just operator error.
>
> 2. While shifting into third, there is a slight grinding
> especially if I'm giving it some go. Doesn't grind unless i'm up
> around 3000 rpm's. I know the simple answer is "well, don't rev
> it up" but again am I missing something or is something wearing or broken?
>
> Your insight is welcomed.
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