> I'm with Skye. I had a 'pointless' pump but have swapped a refurbed
> points-type back in as the pointless was intermittently failing, and you
> just have to wait till it decides to start working again before you can
> proceed. With the points-type a knock will usually get it going again -
> that is if switching the ignition on and off a few times doesn't work.
> How do we know the pointless type are reliable? They haven't been out long
> enough or used widely enough. It's all very well to say "It's the points
> that usually fail so if they haven't got points they can't fail" but what
> replaces them is an unknown quantity.
> Tip: If you have a non-emissions engine then before you change the pump
> take it out for a run for about 20 mins beforehand. That should develop a
> little vacuum in the tank, even with the vented cap, and that will stop fuel
> siphoning out when you disconnect the hoses. If you have an RB it shouldn't
> be a problem as you can keep the pump and hose ends high enough, but a low
> tank level helps.
I have one of the American cube-shaped electronic pumps on the
Victor. Night before last, I filled up at the local station 4 1/2
blocks from my house. I barely got up the (steep) driveway, since
the car began cutting out about 100 yards from the bottom of the
drive. Later that night, I went out to go shopping and it wouldn't
start. I had thoughts about bad fuel or something stirred up in the
tank that may have clogged the line.
Yesterday, I got my grubby clothes on and tore into it. The meter
showed 12 volts and a good ground at the pump, but no operation. I
clamped the hose from the tank and removed the pump, put the leads
up against the battery posts and it worked!
I found that there was enough continuity to show 12 volts on the
meter, but not enough to operate the pump. Since there is no wiring
diagram for the Victor, I ran a new wire from the ignition-hot
circuit to the hot lead of the pump and clipped the old wires and
everything works fine again, except that the tacho is wandering
(without any loss in ignition). I assume there's a bad connection in
the loom somewhere, so I will have to trace that down and run
another new wire.
The fault doesn't affect the lights or ignition. It's an electronic
The relevance to the original discussion is that sometimes you might
have a similar problem with a pump, even though the circuit shows a
full 12 volts, so it might be a good idea to always check the pump
by giving it a full 12 volts right from the battery.
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