> The DPPO installed a puller fan to replace the two pushers, but he wired
> it up to the third fuse down and put a toggle switch on the dash
> (through one of the blank plates). The DPO didn't like that, as he
> couldn't remember to turn the thing on and so pulled the switch out and
> has the fan run all the time. The thermo switch wasn't secure and would
> push out (not all the way) when warm.
>
> I got a new switch, gasket and clip (missing) and installed that.
>
> Question 1: Is there anyway of testing this with a ohm meter or volt
> meter? I guess I have to insure that the water is 200F or better in the
> rad. And that the radiator is completely full right?
Only in hot water as you say.
> Question 2: How to I get a radiator that doesn't have a cap completely
> full? I filled the overflow last night, should/will the radiator suck
> that in until it's full?
The rad should eventually exchange any air in the rad with coolant from the
expansion tank but it may take a few cycles. There should be a top-up/bleed
plug somewhere in the system, either on top of the rad or the thermostat
elbow. Have the front slightly higher than the back when topping up.
> Question 3: The original wiring is not working. I looked at the '78
> wiring diagram in Bentley and found an inline fuse. I found it under the
> hood, and sure enough it was blown. I didn't have any to match the fuse
> in there. It was probably a 1/4 inch longer than regular. It says 30 SFE
> on the end. Is that the right fuse?
Should be a standard 17amp rated 35 amp blow. Having it on the green
circuit is a bad thing as it will tend to slow down the turn flashers more
than normal. Factory 4-cylinder cars had the in-line in the output from the
ignition relay which is better than the green circuit. Factory V8s had
their own fan relay direct off the brown which is even better - voltage drop
is lower still and the fan stat is only carrying relay current and not fan
current.
> Question 4: While were on fuses. In my debugging, and wiring play, I
> blew a fuse (number 3), I went to Menard's and got a 5 pack. Last night,
> in my test drive, or maybe just before, I blew it again. I don't have it
> here with me, but I'm thinking it was a 20amp. Is that right? Bentley
> says 35 amp, which I believe the list in the past week has been saying
> 17 amp nominal with 35 amp burst? Something like that. Fuse 2 looks to
> be the same amperage as 3, I don't remember 4, but 1 seems to be a thin
> wire. This seems suspect to me.
17/35 is correct as above. If the fans are still on the green fuse that
could cause it.
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