At 04:00 PM 6/28/02 +0100, scott beavis wrote:
>Do I need to raise the engine to remove the sump pan? It looks tricky to
>get at those front bolts. ....
Rubber bumper cars would be much easier, but still not impossible on the
earlier ones. My experience has been that the chrome bumper MGB is nearly
identical to the MGA in this area. The three bolts in front I get to with
a 1/4" drive socket and a u-joint, no problem. The two front corner bolts
are a little tougher. I get to those with a box end wrench with offset
head, turning one flat at a time, but 5 minutes each for those bolts is
still easier than unhooking the engine mounts to lift. But if your engine
mounts are in bad shape and sagging a lot, all bets are off.
You may also need to remove the two bottom bolts in the bellhousing, as
those bolts may interfere with pasing the flange on the pan when you drop
it at the back.
>Once the sump pan is off, I plan to undo the main caps, big ends and oil
>pump. I plan to renew the big end bearings, the lower halves of the main
>bearings, and the oil pump. Will this be fairly easy?
Life is easier if you remove the oil pump first.
You will have to remove the two bottom bolts in the timing cover before
removing the front main cap, as those two timing cover bolts thread into
the bearing cap.
You can replace the top half shell of the main bearings at the same
time. Just tap on the end of the shell opposite the anti-rotation tab to
get it started, and then rotate the shell around the journal to remove
it. Hold the exposed end of the shell and rotate the crank to bring the
shell along with it. Installation of the new shell is the opposite of
removal. Do try not to scratch the ground journal on the crankshaft.
1958 MGA with an attitude
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive