> No, but I need to remove the block to take the block to the
> machine shop. I've heard from both Hans Pedersen and Steve
> Sanchez to make the surfaces as flat and smooth as possible.
> I just talked to my machinist and he said that he had sand
> the block on jaguars to get them smooth enough to seal. He's
> never seen the problem with MGBs, but he's never seen a
> supercharged MG before.
>
> I'm going to _CAREFULLY_ sand the machining marks out of the
> block, and have my machinist clean up the head. Does anyone
> have the wherewithal to count and measure the size of the
> passages in the block this afternoon on the off chance I can
> find some appropriately sized plugs to go in there.
> Otherwise, I guess I'll just stuff some rags down the holes.
If those machining marks are just the typical marks left after a head is
milled I think you are wasting your time. Perhaps even causing trouble.
I can't believe a piece of sand paper is going to improve block to head
sealing. The critical thing is not machine tool marks but cracks and
warp.
No amount of sanding or polishing will overcome a head or block that is
not flat.
John Twist has a system that may help, I have pasted it below. It does
work in some circumstances.
Larry
MGB WEEPING CYLINDER HEAD: The rule is, all rebuilt B series engines
weep
between the block and head, between the 2nd and 3rd spark plug. Some
actually piss. To remedy this problem: That center exposed head stud,
RH
side, between #2 and #3 is the guide stud -- the hole in the head is 3/8
whereas the other holes are 7/16. Clean out the stud hole in the head
with
a 3/8 drill. Polish that stud, at least. Ensure a chamfer at the
threaded
hole in the block. Chase the threads on the stud, nut, and block
(3/8-18
and 3/8-24). Ensure the head is planed to 0.001." Ensure that the top
of
the block is cleaned to a SMOOTH finish. Fit the studs back into the
block
with only about 5 lb-ft torque. Place a THIN film of clear silicone,
RTV,
sealant on the RH side of the head gasket. Into that EXTREMELY THIN
film,
place two strands of stranded, flexible wire about six inches long,
twisted
together, along the outboard side of the gasket, between its edge and
the
water jacket holes so that the thickness of the head gasket is
effectively
increased by several thousandths. Goodbye leaks.
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