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16 miliamps drain - a verification

To: "Paul Hunt (T)" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>, mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: 16 miliamps drain - a verification
From: Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 16:43:58 +0100
1 RESULTS OF TROUBLESHOOTING

Well I've done many measurements - taken all direct connected links (the
brown wire connections) apart one by one and even all links to the steering
column, but the 16 ma current remained.

The 1st measurement I did however = disconnecting the alternator had
immediate result.
The alternator is I think the three wire type:
1 thick brown to starter motor
2 less thick brown to the same
3 dual brown - yellow wires connected to eachother (I think this goes to the
idiot light)

The 16 mA current remains untill the thick brown wire is disconnected, the
others are housed into one connector which must be fitted after the thick
brown one is connected.
Is the conclusion right the alterantor's diode block is suspected?
I've desoldered the wires to the rectifier block and measured each diode and
all appeared to have similar current characteristics.
I did the same with all wires connected and again characteristics were of
course different, but very much alike when diodes are compared.

Is such a leaking current measurable with a multi-meter, or is is special
equipment needed?
My meters normally are used for electronics...

2 REPAIR METHOD
Today I phoned my regular MG repair and parts shop.
They do not offer separate parts for the alternator, but offer exchange
units.
Well as one can figure out, this will be costy.
I can hunt for other sources later this week.
What are the list's experiences fixing the alternator itself or go for an
exchange unit...?

TIA.

Cheers,

Hans

71 BGT in rest while snow is coming during the year changing...





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