Grant,
Brake fluid won't work its way down to the wheel cylinders without
assistance of some sort. Opening the bleeder screws might allow it to
flow to the wheels, but one should not count on it happening. Besides, if
it works it will still take a day or two to do so.
Assuming that the wheel cylinders are OK ( I don't think I would assume
that to be true, however ) the way that I would start the bleeding would
be to use a suction device on each wheel's bleeder. There are several
vacuum devices such as MityVac, but for a quick & easy & cheap way to
suction the fluid to the wheel cylinders, just use a plastic syringe and
short bit of tubing, the do the usual pedal-pushing to complete the
bleeding.
Since the system has been dry, I assume that there could be some
sticking of rubber to metal in the cylinders. Having fluid in the wheel
cylinders before doing any pedal-pushing seems less likely to damage
stuck rubber bits.
You have replaced all three rubber hoses?
Bob
On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 22:53:54 -0600 canews@telus.net writes:
> Okay, we are almost there. This 58A that I found runs excellent, all
> the electronics are working. Now just the hydraulics.
>
> When I first got the car it had clutch but no brake. Okay, so
> logical place to start is with the duel master, rebuilt that.
>
> Now I need help, how do I bleed a system that is totally dry? Lets
> assume all of the wheel cylinders are okay. When I fill the reservoir,
how does
> the fluid get down to the cylinder with the line full of air. Should I
just
> open all the bleed screws and let it work its way down? Or should I
bleed it like
> it had fluid and have an assistant pump while I watch for bubbles?
>
snip
> Cheers
>
> Grant Bush
> Edmonton, Cnada
> 50 TD
> 58 A Raring to GO!!
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