As others have said it depends where it is leaking. Many years ago a Mini
developed a pin-hole in the matrix, I poured in a can of Radweld, and that
fixed it for the remainder of the time I had the car which was some years
and many thousands of miles. OTOH my V8 developed a split in the soldered
joint between the header tank and the matrix, and a localised solder repair
only lasted a few weeks before it split again. I could have completely
removed, cleaned up, and resoldered the header tank but as I was in the
early stages of trying to get it to run cooler even in a UK summer I opted
for an exchange uprated rad instead. If a repair shop will guarantee their
repair for more than a few weeks it has got to be considerably cheaper than
a new/exchange rad (well, in the UK anyway, I'm always amazed at how much
you Americans have to pay for parts and labour), but price one up before you
get the repair quote.
There is no reason why you cannot get the correct rad for your year,
although I'm sure some unscrupulous suppliers would say "you can't get one
of those any more, only these" when they don't happen to have one.
Unless you undo a drain tap when the engine it hot and the coolant is under
pressure to drain it you are much better off removing the bottom hose.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Macedonia" <david.macedonia@verizon.net>
To: <Mgs@Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Monday, December 06, 2004 1:46 AM
Subject: New Radiator
> It's been recommended to me NOT to attempt to repair the radiator in my
'66B
> and just buy a new one from Victoria British (P/N 12-005) or Moss (P/N
> 456-880). Would you agree with that advice?
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