Oh, the joy of that first drive after a long lay-up. Equalled by the 2nd,
3rd, 4th ...
1. I didn't even try to bleed mine but *filled* the system from the slave
nipple with a Gunsons EeziBleed on very low pressure till I could see fluid
in the master, then topped off as normal. Had full travel (1/2"-5/8") of
the slave piston immediately with no bleeding. Since then I've heard of
connecting a caliper nipple to the clutch slave nipple and using the brake
pedal to fill or bleed the clutch, making sure the brake master is kept
fully topped up of course. However that would upset the brake balance
shuttle on split braking systems and would need to be reset. Another
possibility for a filled system is to get underneath and use the clutch arm
to push the slave piston all the way back into the cylinder - there should
always be some 'spare' travel - in the hope that it will push any air
bubbles trapped in the loop at the top of the clutch pipe the short distance
into the master. Normally such bubbles would have to be pushed all the way
down and through the slave, a much longer distance. Also make sure the
bleed nipple is in the *top* hole when installed, they seem to be shipped in
the lower position.
2. A flickering tach needle is often caused by intermittent connections in
the ignition LT circuit, which usually causes a misfire as well. However
some electronic aftermarket electronic ignition systems can cause wild
readings on some tachs, particularly the early current pulse type you have.
3. If a sharp rap on the speedo glass frees the needle, particularly when
travelling at speed, it is a sticky movement or needle sticking to the stop.
Other than that, if the odo is turning, then unless the disc on the end of
the cable that moves the needle by magnetic attraction, there isn't much
else that can cause it.
4. The recommended oil was always the same type and grade as used in the
engine, the grade of which depends on local climatic conditions. 10W/40 is
right at the low end or for cold climates, 20W/50 is better. There have
always been loads of opinions as to this snake oil or that, some may be of
use if you have mechanical problems in the gearbox, but otherwise why make
life difficult for yourself?
Balancing wires, or any centre-lock wheel, is tricky for most tyre places.
In my experience even though they might have cones to mount the wheel on the
computer balancers the outer cone is the wrong gender if it bears on the
inside of the centre hole in the wheel, it must bear on the outside where
the spinner bears. I've had people show me what they think is a badly
buckled wheel because of this, which is fine on the axle. On-car balancing
is best if you can get it, failing that a bubble balancer.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Macedonia" <david.macedonia@verizon.net>
To: <mgs@Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Thursday, December 23, 2004 12:39 PM
Subject: Misc. Questions
> 1. This is a common topic here on the list - bleeding the clutch
hydraulics.
>
> 2. The needle on my tachometer fluctuates wildly while driving. I remember
>
> 3. The speedometer needle doesn't move. Actually, I think it wants to
move,
>
> 4. I've been told to use 30W, non-detergent oil in my transmission instead
> ... Speaking of tires, where can I bring
> mine to get them properly balanced?
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