The classic symptom of clutch spin is when you increase the throttle the
revs rise but the road speed doesn't, and this usually happens in 4th gear
first as the torque on the clutch is greatest in that gear.
You may well have had clutch spin or slip originally, but having
disconnected the hydraulics to remove the engine etc. you may well now have
air in the system causing the low biting point.
You should have about 1/2" to 5/8" of travel of the slave pushrod when the
pedal is operated through its full travel. One cause of travel *less* than
this is air in the hydraulics. These are generally reckoned to be a pig to
bleed, so when I replaced my master, flex hose and slave I didn't even try,
but filled the system from the slave bleed nipple using a Gunsons EeziBleed
on very low pressure. This got me the full travel straight away with no
bleeding. Any system of reverse filling or bleeding should achieve the same
result.
Another cause of a low biting point is wear in the mechanical linkage up at
the master. A combination of ovalled holes in the pedal and the master
push-rod, and a badly worn clevis pin, lost me about an inch of travel at
the pedal. Contrary to popular opinion similar wear at the slave end does
*not* affect pedal travel as the hydraulics make the system self-adjusting
for any wear in the slave linkage, release arm, release bearing, cover
plate, and friction plate.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
> >
> >> Last Fall my clutch exhibit what the manual described and many of you
> >> thought was clutch spin. The hydraulics seemed to be providing the
> >> proper movement of the cylinder. Anyway, I pulled the engine and
> >> replaced the entire clutch. The pressure plate showed some
> >> discoloration consistent with clutch spin but it wasn't bad.
> >>
> >> Apparently that wasn't the problem. It acts like the clutch won't
> >> disengage. I release the pedal the slightest amount and the clutch
> >> leaps in.
> >>
> >> any ideas what to try next?
|