It is easier to replace the brake MC at the same time as the clutch MC. If
it looks just as old, you might as well do both. It is pretty typical for
the hydraulics to perish at around the same time. At that point, since
you've set yourself up for a bleeding session, you should do at least the
clutch slave, the clutch hose, and all three brake hoses. Inspect the
calipers and the rear wheel cylinders -- if the rubber bits look at all old,
replace them as well. Of course, it is easy for me to spend your money.
Rebuild kits are available, too, if you want to mess around with the fiddly
bits, but as the replacements are relatively inexpensive, I don't find kits
worth my time.
on 8/10/05 6:17 PM, oliver at sumton@sbcglobal.net wrote:
> Hi, all.
>
> i've got a bit of mechanical skill - i've changed oil, swapped a gas tank,
> never done a brake job, pulled the engine on another car, took the clutch
> stuff out and put it back together with a friend but wasn't there to put the
> engine back in the car , changed a water pump or two, replaced carbs and
> tuned them. i'm probably better at removing things than installing them . .
> .
>
> the clutch on my 73 cbb goes to the floor, and the master cylinder is
> completely empty. the car is pretty original; the odo broke long ago but we
> think it has less than 50k miles on it; it runs great, is fun to drive, etc.
>
> my question - looks like the hydraulics are going; i should do the clutch
> and brakes at the same time i NEVER want the brake pedal to just go to the
> floor!!!) i'm no mechanical wizard; should i replace the hoses and
> masters/slaves myself? and if i do, will you answer just incredibly dumb
> questions?
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
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