Someone suggested checking the rear rubber hose. If it's more than a
couple of years old, you would do well to replace it regardless of its
appearance. Hoses can appear fine yet have internal deterioration that
stops proper back-and-forth fluid movement.
Another thing to check is the metal line on the axle. If that has
been flattened the effect is like kinking a garden hose to stop the water
flow. A common cause of crushed brake lines is the use of a tow chain
around the axle when pulling a car up onto a flatbed truck.
That shuttle valve in the pressure warning device may be the problem,
but when I managed to get it off to one side in my '72 MBB the front and
rear brakes worked OK. I bled the system to my satisfaction, then
re-centered the shuttle. In the shop manual is a procedure for getting
the shuttle centered. It works, but it is fiddley and you will need a
I believe that your Midget and the same-year MGBs use the same MC.
The first time I rebuilt it there was a defective cup in the kit and rear
brakes did not work. A replacement cup ( I think I got it at NAPA )
fixed that problem. Also, if that link (looks like a chain link) is
broken the cup will not be pulled back into position to pump a second
stroke of fluid to the rear brakes.
My original problem and continuing problem was of the leaking. I
rebuilt it three times and never could do it without leaking, bought a
new one that leaked, and was replaced, and the replacment leaked, so
eventually sent the second new one to White Post.
On Sat, 7 Oct 2006 15:54:38 -0500 "John Roberts" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
> I am having some brake troubles with my 71 Midget.>
> I have rebuilt the master cylinder.
> I have rebuilt the calipers.
> I have new brake pads.
> I have bled the front brakes so that no air bubbles come out of the
> line when the brake pedal is depressed.
> However, I have mushy brakes that won't stop the car!!>
> When I disconnected the driver side rear brake line from the rear
> drum brake and depressed the pedal, NO FLUID CAME OUT.>
> Any suggestions of what the problem is or what I can test to find
> My only idea is that the pressure warning light valve is jammed or
> broken such that no pressure can build up.
> HELP!! Much thanks for your time as always!>
> ALSO, here are some pictures of the rebuilt front end (new tie rods
> have not come in yet, so I had to put the old ones back on)>
> BEFORE REBUILD: http://tinyurl.com/rfemy
> AFTER: http://tinyurl.com/qs4w5>
> John Roberts
> 71 Midget
> Birmingham, ALt