Examining the battery and cover, I don't see any marks, so I'm going
with something else shorted out.
The connector came loose on the starter again. I worked on that,
crimped it down to get tighter. Hopefully that
will hold now.
The radio and clock started working again. I didn't get to looking
under the dash, but I'm sure I'll find an iffy ground.
The alternator (and the spare I found in my box) both tested bad. The
spare didn't even have a post for the ignition light.
It's the same alternator, but I bet it's for a different car.
I've ordered a new one from Checker, it will be in on Friday. I'm
wondering if Mark at Quality Coaches has one in stock?
I wouldn't mind having two rebuilt ones. They are cheap enough.
I don't have time to drive down to South Minneapolis this week
anyway, especially with the Bridge gone.
Paul.
On Sep 23, 2007, at 8:52 AM, Paul Hunt wrote:
> If it *was* the battery that jumped up and shorted out on the cover
> then unless it welded itself there the interruption would have been
> momentary and the engine would have restarted while still being
> spun by the forward motion of the car, as you don't seem to have
> dipped the clutch for a few moments. The alternator shouldn't have
> been damaged by a short on the output, they are internally
> protected against over-current, but who knows what spikes might
> have been generated by shorting the battery (if that is indeed what
> happened, any tell-tale weld marks on the connector or cover?) as
> they should be disconnected when welding. If the engine didn't
> restart while it was still being spun, nor was there any power
> (warning light on?) when you turned the key to crank, that implies
> a failure of a brown connector at the solenoid, but they should be
> on studs on a 77 and very unlikely to respond to a bump.
>
> If the clock is still off that implies a problem in the purple
> circuit and should be easy to find. If the courtesy lights and
> horn are OK then it isn't the fuse so probably just the 12v or
> ground wire to the clock dropped off.
>
> For the radio it depends where it is powered from - normally it
> would be from the accessories position of the switch, is normally
> the only thing that is, and should have its own in-line fuse.
> Again it looks like a 'one-off' unless it shares the ground with
> the clock.
>
> If the car starts and runs but the ignition warning light is on
> that implies no charge from the alt, again easy to check at the
> plug on the alt.
>
> With some power having come back it looks like the original cause
> of loss of power to the engine has been lost ... until you hit that
> bump again.
>
> PaulH.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> So I'm driving into work to replace the dns/proxy server. And I
>> change
>> lanes for my exit, and hit a bump.
>> Radio goes off, no power, push in the clutch, and the engine dies.
>> Hit
>> the starter, nothing.
>
>
Paul Root
ptrmgb@gmail.com
77 MGB
99 OBS
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