I think I would be looking at the ignition switch first.
Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote: If it *was* the battery that
jumped up and shorted out on the cover then
unless it welded itself there the interruption would have been momentary and
the engine would have restarted while still being spun by the forward motion
of the car, as you don't seem to have dipped the clutch for a few moments.
The alternator shouldn't have been damaged by a short on the output, they
are internally protected against over-current, but who knows what spikes
might have been generated by shorting the battery (if that is indeed what
happened, any tell-tale weld marks on the connector or cover?) as they
should be disconnected when welding. If the engine didn't restart while it
was still being spun, nor was there any power (warning light on?) when you
turned the key to crank, that implies a failure of a brown connector at the
solenoid, but they should be on studs on a 77 and very unlikely to respond
to a bump.
If the clock is still off that implies a problem in the purple circuit and
should be easy to find. If the courtesy lights and horn are OK then it
isn't the fuse so probably just the 12v or ground wire to the clock dropped
off.
For the radio it depends where it is powered from - normally it would be
from the accessories position of the switch, is normally the only thing that
is, and should have its own in-line fuse. Again it looks like a 'one-off'
unless it shares the ground with the clock.
If the car starts and runs but the ignition warning light is on that implies
no charge from the alt, again easy to check at the plug on the alt.
With some power having come back it looks like the original cause of loss of
power to the engine has been lost ... until you hit that bump again.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
> So I'm driving into work to replace the dns/proxy server. And I change
> lanes for my exit, and hit a bump.
> Radio goes off, no power, push in the clutch, and the engine dies. Hit
> the starter, nothing.
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