First rule of British clutches (learned many years ago from hard experience)
if the clutch is slipping, change the pressure plate. I don't care if it is
supposed to be the world's best PP, it isn't. Slipping creates heat, heat
weakens pressure plates. ask me how I know this. (Hint: Been there, done
that, and got the T-shirt that goes with it)
Oil getting past the rear main should be on the wrong side of the flywheel.
However oil can wick up the threads of the flywheel bolts and then get
deposited onto the clutch.
I would have the flywheel machined, and when remounting it, use blue
locktite, or liquid teflon as a thread sealer for the flywheel bolts.
Make sure the front seal on the gear box is good.
Use a new pressure plate. I would also change the disc, but I have no
experience with kevlar discs so you are on your own there.
On general principle, I would make sure that the inside of the bellhousing
was clean so any new leaks would show up.
Good luck
Rick
On Sun, May 23, 2010 at 7:53 PM, J. F. Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net> wrote:
> When Roger's engine grenaded at New Jersey, I drove past him but just
> barely. My MGA is struggling with a slipping clutch, and it made my last
> few sessions challenging. This is a kevlar solid (no springs) clutch with a
> competition-grade pressure plate. I think oil past the rear scroll seal has
> contaminated it, even though conventional wisdom says that oil from there
> should get flung away from the clutch cover. Has anyone dealt with this? I
> was able to salvage some sessions by spraying brake cleaner up the drain
> hole with the clutch out and spinning on the starter. That and cooling off
> would run okay for about half a race session. Engine is a slightly modified
> 1622 and 4.30:1 rear. My next plan is to go to a ceramic clutch material
> (have a source in NJ) and a PCV system to help keep the oil in the engine,
> although the oil consumption does not seem remarkable. Suggestions welcome.
>
> Jim Juhas
> MGA 311
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