Not so on the MGA. The MGA has no preload spring. It has shims to
adjust minimal clearance. If you manage to adjust it to have a bit
of drag initially, it will wear in and become loose in short order
anyway. So being loose is normal for MGA.
If it is loose enough to wiggle endways you can (maybe) disassemble
the acorn nut and remove a thin shim to reduce internal
clearance. Beware that this joint is often very difficult to
unscrew, and the shims are usually aluminum. This may be why it is so
difficult to open, due to galvanic corrosion of dissimilar
metals. If you apply heat it will most likely destroy the aluminum
shims. See here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/steering/sr201.htm
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/steering/sr202.htm
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/tools/18G312.htm
Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com
At 08:43 AM 5/11/2012 +0100, PaulHunt73 wrote:
There should be a resistance for the MGB at least, to ensure no free
play - 32 to 52 pound *inches* on the rod to produce
articulation. The ball housing is adjusted to produce this, the
'locknut' flange has to be prised out of the indentations on the
housing to allow it.
....
----- Original Message -----
... I thought there should be some resistance to them and that
they should basically hold horizontal (but with free motion all
around when moved by hand). Is this correct. If not how do I go
about adjusting them. Is it a "simple" tightening of the acorn nut
like an MGB, or is it more involved. The ball joint connection to
the rack certainly looks a little different than an MGB.
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